Question about Kenmore Dryers
Model 110.71202010 dryer - when setting to moisture sensing cycle - dryer heats but timer does not advance to end of cycle. When setting to timed cycle, dryer heats and timer does advance to end of cycle. Trying to determine what needs to be replaced.
Make sure the small orange wire is connected to the 250 limit at the base of the heater assy. That is what powers the motor on auto cycle.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the motor overload can caouse that problem in that case new motor is needed if the dryer turn right back on after it turns off the even heat control board in panel bad if it humms are no noise after turn off and you have to let cool down the motor is the problem
Posted on Feb 28, 2008
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't heat
The problem may not be the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. All Kenmore dryers are not constructed the the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
I had an identical problem to yours this weekend with my Kenmore dryer. There were 2 problems.
1. Timer was broken. Does not advance to "OFF" position on timed dry, however it still works for auto-dry.
2. Thermal fuse was blown. Upon replacing, dryer heated up normally.
I believe when the timer broke, the dryer had kept running and blew the thermal fuse. On Sears' website, thermal fuse is $5.30, timer is roughly $80.
Kenmore 70 Series gas dryer, M# 110.76752500
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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