Question about Sport & Outdoor - Others
Cat chewed up wiring, pieces are missing, looking for a wiring diagram if possible.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: harvard air hockey scoing system
The controller is poorly designed and likely burned out. I am assuming you bought your's used. If it were new, you would see that each segment of the LEDs would burn out over time and stop displaying. I am rebuilding mine - I bought a microcontroller and and writing the programing from scratch. I have identified all of the pins on the controller and it will plug into all the cables on the bottom of the table. should have it done by New Years. Let me know, if it sounds like your problem. I can build an extra one - I'll check back here to see if you are interested.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
The customer service is somewhat oblivious to their inventory and products they sell. But, if your table is not pushing the puck, call and order a new fan (easy swap out). Also, you may use a small pin and poke each air-hole as dust accumulates and clogs system (do not use a wax or polish, only damp soft cloth)
The control box is the interface to power scoreboard.(kids pushed the transformer cord in too hard and separated the circuitry panel inside CB). I am in process of replacing mine, model number 34090, part number 34090HG08, $5.00+ SH
There are comparable control box modules for similar turbo hockey games, Atomizer, which uses a similar control box that you can swap circuitry out to your old box. (Very simple, even a cave man can do it..hah). The key is the ability to put control box back together once you disassemble inerts. (The "flip" mechanism is so shoddy it never goes back together right)
Good luck with Sportcraft and their disposable $500-600.00 air hockey tables which have a lifespan of parts of less than 5 yrs!
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
This table uses low voltages for the scoring lever. I agree with fixer1950. Check / disassemble the goal / scoring assembly, and look for the scoring lever. sometimes just 2 metal plates. should see where it's touching the scoring strip and you can test it by moving it with your finger / pen / other device.
Try adjusting it further away, and test again with a puck to ensure proper operation..
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
If you have a central air conditioner, or a split system, where the indoor unit is attached to the furnace and a outdoor unit is located outside of the home. 2 copper lines will be connected to it, a larger and a smaller one. If it is a air conditioner and not a heat pump, the A/C usually uses 2 wires, that are connected. Allot of times a installer will use a 3 wire thermostat wire, to run to the outdoor unit, if this is the case, the third wire will be folded back out of the way.
The color of the wire is usually picked by the installer, I myself usually use white and red and fold the green out of the way. If you only had 2 wires hooked to it to start with, it really would not make a differace which one you hook up to either one of the yellow wires.
All you are doing it having one wire coming in and one wire leaving,,,, just creating a complete circuit, just don't connect the two yellow wires together.
Example: If you have 2 yellow wires on the A/C unit and 2 wires coming from the house "example a red and a white" hook the white to "One yellow wire" and the red wire to "the other yellow wire".
You are just creating a complete circuit, when the thermostat calls for cooling, it creates a magnetic pull and closes the contact points, in the air conditioner, outside, this allows the 220 volt to flow to the compressor,,, and ahhhh cooling!
I hope I have not confused you, I am just starting to help on this site and still trying to make things understandable.
Wish you the best,
Posted on Mar 30, 2010
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The Air Hockey mallet is used to
strike the pucks along the Air Hockey table in the direction you want to strike.
You should strike the puck with enough force in order to be able to score a
goal at the other end of the table, after a couple of game you'll get the idea.
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