Question about Ingersoll Rand Type 30 Reciprocating Air Compressor 5 Hp, 80 Gallon, 230 Volt 3 Phase, Model# 2340N5
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the wire juction box on your compressor has a pressure switch that may be wound in to tight take the cover off the box there should be a switch with a machine screw with nut and washer and spring back this nut off and see if that helps if you go to far you just crank it back in until the switch hit although it may be the other way around you may have to tighten to lower the pressure some of them are made that way if this does not solve your problem send me a picture of the switch and can solve it from there
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
I would wonder A if the wiring was heavey enough to carry that sort of load with out overheating B if the motor is big enough to do it for the same reason( ?what is the duty cycle?) C if the receiver is big enough to allow reasonable time between shut down and start up --- remembering that at start up the motor pulls double the current to start up and if it doesn `thave sufficient time to cool alittle before being called on to do it again and that would prompt the question ,does it have sufficient ventilation? these are all queries that would need addressing before I would try to offer a solution ,one thing is certain ,--there is something wrong
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Ingersoll Rand likes you to buy their all season select oil for their air compressors, most piston air compressors use an R+O 100 oil it is equivalent to n SAE 30 wt oil.
Posted on May 12, 2010
The best way to go about the task of adjusting the pressure switch is to remove the cover to switch and note the brand/model number. Sometimes instruction are under cover of switch. With switch information, look for mfg. instructions. You will most likely see one or two springs with lock nuts. Do not turn them yet. Most pressure switches are sold with factory adjustment and are sold in pressure ranges. For two stage compressors as yours, the pressure is usually factory set at much higher (150-175) pressures than single stage which is usually about 120 -125. If you change the pressure setting it will also change the differential cut on pressure. The factory will actually use different springs to achieve desired pressures and are color coded. There are too many different brands of switches to recommend how to change pressure setting. You may discover that you can only change the pressure just a small amount (+or -15-20psi ). If you find the information about your switch, make sure that you count the turns exactly so that you can return to factory settings if things go wrong. You can extend the life of the comperssor by lowering the pressure as more amperage /heat is produced to achieve higher pressures. Good luck
Posted on Sep 23, 2010
If air continously comes from the bottom of the pressure switch (bleeder valve) you have a bad tank check valve. The check valve is located on the receiver tank where the copper line from the compressor head goes to the tank. The brass hex between the copper line and the receiver tank is the check valve. Remove it after making sure all pressure has been bleed off the tank. Then you can inspect it. I recommend replacing it unless there is something obviously stuck in it that can be removed with no damage to the check valve. Another way to see if it is the check vale is to loosen the nut on the copper line at the HP head that goes to the receiver tank. If air continously blows from the copper line the check valve is leaking.
Posted on May 05, 2011
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