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Ball head repair

My ball head will not lock into place. No loose parts are floating around on the inside. So I don't know what the problem could be. Can anyone help?

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I need to get the ball of the stick shift of my 2006 chevy


Gear lever balls ( if original ) are normally screwed on with a right hand thread . They are locked in place by a lock nut at the bottom under the ball and when that nut is screwed on further the ball becomes loose and can be taken off.. If the ball is over a flat bar then look for a hex headed grub screw near the bottom of the ball

Mar 18, 2014 | 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

Won't scroll down but will scroll up, have tried turning it upside down & rolling the ball around but it didn't help


Have you tried cleaning out the inside where the ball sits? If you flip your mouse upside down you should see a circle around the ball that should have "open" and "close" arrows. Spin the circle towards open and once it stops spinning flip it over -- the circle and the ball should fall right out. Take a look at the 2 straight bars that sit on top of the mouse ball -- one is for horizontal movement, the other for vertical. Most likely, there is a buildup of dust and debris on them (it will probably look like a grey spot that covers the center of the bars). Remove this debris with your finger-nails (as they will not scratch the bars themselves) and then wipe them with some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. Once the bars are clean, drop the ball back in, and put the circular cover back on (don't forget to lock it in place by spinning it to "close".
This SHOULD resolve your issue. If it does not, there may be a problem with your mouse's movement sensors ... which would most likely mean that you should buy a new mouse (they are pretty inexpensive these days). If you have to buy a new one, I recommend grabbing an optical mouse -- it has no moving parts and will prevent this problem in the future.

Jun 07, 2011 | Apple Mighty MA086LL/A Mouse

1 Answer

Im trying to find out were the 2 ball berrings and little spring go in the carb, on an s.s 0n my 72 iron head sporty


They go in the accelerator pump on the bottom of the float bowl. These are the check valves. Turn the float bowl upside down. There should be two screws left in the accelerator pump plate (one of them holds the float bowl to the carb body). Remove these two screws. Underneath this plate, you'll find a diaphragm and a large spring. Over towards the float bowl drain plug, you'll see two hole. One hole is deeper than the other. The deep hole is closest to the drain plug, drop the small spring into this hole and place one ball on top of it. Put the other ball in the other hole. Now, lay the diaphragm on float bowl over the accelerator pump well in the float bowl. Put the large spring on top of the accelerator pump diaphragm and place the plate over it. Work the plate around to seat the diaphragm in it's groove and install the two screws.

For a better view of what you're going, go to S&S's website. Click on "Tech Info", click on "installation instructions", and select "fuel systems". Look of instruction sheet #51-1012, installation instructions for E & G "shorty" carburetors. Download or print out the instructions which will include a complete parts breakdown, tuning instructions, everything you ever wanted to know about an S&S carb but were afraid to ask.
http://www.sscycle.com/#

Good Luck
Steve

Apr 15, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

R&R ball joints??


MOST OF THEM HAVE A ZERC FITTING TO GREASE THEM! IF YOU WANT TO REPLACE THEM: YOU WILL NEED A BALL JOINT REMOVAL TOOL ( FROM ANY PARTS STORE)! THEN YOU USE PAINT, OR CHALK, AND MARK THE PART WHERE THE JOINT IS SCREWED ON TO THE SHAFT! THIS WILL HELP YOU COUNT THE NUMBER OF THREADS INSIDE THE BALL JOINT! THEN LOOSEN THE NUT ON THE BALL JOINT ENOUGH SO YOU CAN PLACE THE BALL JOINT TOOL BETWEEN THE JOINT AND THE MOUNT IT GOES THRU! USE A HAMMER TO KNOCK IT LOOSE! ONCE IT IS LOOSE, REMOVE THE NUT, AND WASHER, AND PULL THE BOLT SIDE OF THE JOINT OUT OF THE MOUNT! NOW THE FUN! AS YOU REMOVE THE BALL JOINT FROM THE SHAFT, YOU'LL HAVE TO LOOSEN THE NUT HOLDING THE BALL JOINT! THEN REMOVE THE JOINT FROM THE SHAFT! WHERE THE PAINT STOPS IS WHERE YOU START COUNTING THE THREADS THAT WERE INSIDE THE BALL JOINT! PLACE THE NEW JOINT ON THE SHAFT, AND SCREW IT BACK TO THAT POINT! TIGHTEN THE NUT, PUT THE BOLT SIDE BACK INTO THE MOUNT, AND PLACE THE WASHER, AND NUT BACK ON IT! THEN TIGHTEN IT DOWN, AND YOUR DONE!

Mar 05, 2011 | 2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

2 Answers

I bought a Star Galaxy Professional Pinball machine from Toys R Us about 2yrs. ago. The company is called Science Tech a trademark of Bowen Hill Ltd. Within about 3-4 mths after my purchase the ball quit...


Hey, figured mine out, you have to take off the front right plastic molding, and the piece that creates the track, then inside there is the scoop Rednax was talking about. Mine wasn't loose, it was busted clean off at the plastic mount, so since that plastic shaft was hollow, I bought a metal dowel that fit tightly in the shaft and some loctite plastic glue and stuck it all back together and hoped for the best, since I don't know how to weld plastic. thats been about 2 weeks ago, and I do daycare and its still together so I'm calling it a successful fix. Those 2 parts don't come out easily though, they are a major pain in the rear to get out, but you just gotta yank and pull and pry to get them out. Its a much bigger hassle to get them all back in place!

Dec 30, 2010 | Video Game Consoles & Games

2 Answers

My 322RC2 Grip Action Ball Quick Release has lost


I had the same problem and found the solution after much looking online. Use rubbing alcohol to clean the ball! This works even with the ball in place as long as you rotate the head around to reach all surfaces of the ball. Note that many suggestions to tighten the Allen screw at the base of grip clamp or to roll the wheel to its tightest position do not work because they affect the amount of effort you need to squeeze the clamp, and not specifically the amount of friction between the ball itself and the head. Over time the ball loses it's grip but rubbing alcohol removes finger oils, dust, airborne pollution, etc. After wiping with rubbing alcohol, my ten year old head is now as tight as the day I bought it! Hope this works for you.

Apr 03, 2010 | Manfrotto (Distributed by Bogen) 190XPROB...

1 Answer

Im having trouble put in a ball joint in my 2000 taurus can anyon


The ball joint has pressure on it from the strut,it may be loose in the spindle,and you dont realise this.It takes a large bar,and two people to push it down far enough to remove it from the spindle.If you are sure it has not turned loose of the spindle,the take a big hammer and hit the spindle real hard multiple times near the ball joint,all around the spindle.Do not hit the ball joint itself.just where the ball joint stud goes threw the spindle,not the ball joint stud(don`t hit the stud)This will jar it free,but you will have to use a large pry bar and push down on the spindle control arm.

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4 Answers

There is a really bad wabble in the front right tire when i go atleast 25 and hit a small bump. how do i fix this?


i would have the whole front system checked or go to a used tire place and let them inspect the wheel and rim-they know their stuff

Jul 30, 2009 | 1990 Chevrolet Suburban

2 Answers

Need to know the torque settings for a 1969 chevy c10 upper and lower ball joints


for a 72 which is the same front end: upper-install new joint torque the bolts that hold it on the a-frame to 45 ft. lbs. then torque the ball stud as follows: 40-60 ft. lbs. plus additional torque to align cotter pin not to exceed 90 ft. lbs. never back off to align cotter pin. then install cotter pin.

May 19, 2009 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

Manfrotto Tripod Ball-grip Head 322RC2


If you look on the ring that goes around the ball, on the side by the red tension gauge, you'll see an indentation. It is just barely visible on the product shot above.

In the hole, you'll find what looks like an odd shaped bolt. It is actually a threaded post inside a nut.

Use an Allen wrench (hex key) to tighten this post.

Be careful though, a little tension here goes a long way. You should probably turn it no more than 1/8 to 1/4 turn and then test it. If it still isn't tight enough, repeat until you are satisfied.

You should probably also talk to a trained technician at somepoint to see if the loosening is indicative of a larger problem. I really wouldn't know one way or the other. I just discovered the calibration post by taking mine apart.

Sep 29, 2007 | Bogen Communication Bogen Manfrotto 322RC2...

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