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Does anybody know Where can I get replacement screws for the mothercare spin

One of the screws have come out that hold the basket to the frame and the little plastic bit too, does anybody know where I can get replacement ones

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Best to contact Mothercare customer service they should be able to supply you with parts.

Posted on Jan 01, 2014

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Moat likely, only the manufacturer. (for an exact replacement)

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Pop into your local Mothercare store or contact their customer care team for assistance.

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The eazy way to take off a driver side door pannel from 2004 chevy tahoe


The easy way? Goliath it- just rip it off !
Panels are held by several screws and plastic push pins. The screws may be covered by little rectangular snap covers. Pry off the covers to access the screws. One screw should be behind the inner door handle, holding a piece of trim there. Radio speakers are held on by screws, and so might be the trim piece over the speaker. Remove all screws first, check carefully for any hidden ones. Door pulls or armrests may have larger screws holding them fast. The plastic pins are usually around the lower perimeter and up along the sides. Slip a putty knife or thin screwdriver behind the panel and near each pin to pop them out of the frame. Check for anything else holding the panel, like outside mirror screws that go through the panel. When you have the panel all loose, lift out and up from the bottom to clear the window channel. Unplug electrical connections and panel should be free. The plastic water shield is held to door frame by adhesive. Peel it off and save for reapplying. Without that plastic sheet, moisture can get to electrical connections, and mold can start ruining the inside of the door panel.

Aug 14, 2013 | 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Getting an OL problem code


1. Unplug the power cord
2. Lift the top of the washer up, to do this there are 2 latches in the seams between the top and the bottom sections. These latches are about 6 1/2 inches from the right side and left side of the washer. You need to insert a small screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the paint) and push the latch while lifting the top section.
3. The top will actually fold back leaving the inner tube fully exposed. Support the glass lid so it doesn't get damaged because it is very heavy and will fall open when you flip the top back.
4. Remove the plastic top of the tub. There is one hose connected at the back and there are several snaps around the outter edge that hold it on. Remove the hose and unsnap the snaps and set it aside.
5. Remove the cap covering the very center of the agitator. It is just snapped in place and can be pryed off with a small screwdriver.
6. Remove the center screw under the cap.
7. Remove the agitator, you need to lift it evenly and might have to work your way around by pulling on one of the three fins and then the next and so on. I also had luck using a small pair of needle nose pliers and grabing a small lip inside the area where the screw was and pulling from there.
8. Remove the 6 phillips screws in the middle holding the plastic top gear in place. Be very careful you don't drop one of the screws because it can fall through the slots in the basket and be lost below.
9. Remove the plastic top gear.
10. Pull the plastic lower gear off of the splined shaft. It should pull right off.
11. Now you need to pull the basket up and off of the shaft. This is where you might have problems because the basket might be corroded to the shaft. If you can grab the basket on both sides under the outter lip and pull upward it might pull up. If not, then you will have to figure out a way to get it off.
12. Once the basket is off you will notice there is liquid inside of it. That is factory sealed in there so do not worry about that, it is normal.
13. With the basket is off you will be able to see that the shaft is probably corroded and the inside bearing on the basket is corroded. Clean these both off very good and check to see if the basket can easily go back on the shaft and slide up and down without getting stuck. I had to sand and file the shaft a little bit to get it totally cleaned up. The inned bearing of the basket is plastic so it is pretty easy to clean with light sanding.
14. Reassemble in the reverse order and your done. Check to make sure the basket can easily float now by pulling up on it from the top inside lips.

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How to replace door handle on passager front side


Remove the interior door trim - Remove inner handle surround, slide out wood, remove screws including the one hiding under the rubber air trunking. Remove small middle section (inside pull-handle) to reveal cross head screw - remove. Also remove screw in red kerb light.

The window lift motor needs removing, but first use plenty of tape to hold the window to the top of the door frame to prevent the glass falling down.

Undo the four nuts that hold the lift motor (no need to unbolt the bottom channel runner).

Undo the connectors, and ease down and out the motor.

Remove the four Torx-headed bolts holding the window frame, and remove a fifth inside the door at the bottom of the front frame. (Don't worry - the frame will not drop down)

Force the frame up so that the window is clear of the weather seal (a bit of a struggle). Untape the glass, and remove. Remove frame. Remove the handle - first undo the cable/ rod connections. Unplug the handles electric's (cut cable ties). Remove 2 10mm bolts holding handle to door frame. Remove handle.

To refit - reverse procedure.

you may need to adjust the new handle

To adjust the door handles, you take off the door interior panel.

There's a little gray rectangle in the interior door handle. Push up and it will pop out revealing a screw. There's also a screw behind the puddle lamp (the little red lamp on the door interior, near the rear). It's sort of scary, but take a large flat head screwdriver, hold it horizontally, insert it in the crevice between the puddle lamp and the door and pry it off (be sure to hold your tongue in just the right position or you'll break the plastic).

After all the screws are out, just pull the door off gently from the edges, there are plastic 'clips' that hold the door on - not to worry, you'll see.

Inside the door you can see the door handle assembly. There is also a turnbuckle which can adjust the length of the arm that connects the door handle and the latch. The bad news is, you have to take the outside handle off to adjust this turnbuckle. It's more time consuming than it is difficult.

Anyway, there are four screws on the bracket that hold the outside handle on.

I found that a pair of simple pliers was the best method for loosening them.

BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THEM INTO THE DOOR ONCE THEY ARE LOOSENED!

Adjusting the turnbuckles is very important and they need to be adjusted to completely eliminate all free play from the external handles when the doors are closed but unlocked.

The standard Jaguar tool kit includes the right open jaw spanners to do the job. Other very small 8 & 7 mm open jaw spanners would also be OK. The front doors are no problem at all; the rears are difficult but possible.

The job can be made a little easier by buying a small 8 mm open jaw and heating and bending the shank about 30 degrees, as near as possible to the jaws and in the flat plane.



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1 Answer

Door leaver won't opn the door. need diagram/instruction on removing the door panel, particular the door arm rest


Remove the interior door trim - Remove inner handle surround, slide out wood, remove screws including the one hiding under the rubber air trunking. Remove small middle section (inside pull-handle) to reveal crosshead screw - remove. Also remove screw in red kerb light.

The window lift motor needs removing, but first use plenty of tape to hold the window to the top of the door frame to prevent the glass falling down.

Undo the four nuts that hold the lift motor (no need to unbolt the bottom channel runner).

Undo the connectors, and ease down and out the motor.

Remove the four Torx-headed bolts holding the window frame, and remove a fifth inside the door at the bottom of the front frame. (Don't worry - the frame will not drop down)

Force the frame up so that the window is clear of the weather seal (a bit of a struggle). Untape the glass, and remove. Remove frame.

to adjust the handle

There's a little gray rectangle in the interior door handle. Push up and it will pop out revealing a screw. There's also a screw behind the puddle lamp (the little red lamp on the door interior, near the rear). It's sort of scary, but take a large flathead screwdriver, hold it horizontally, insert it in the crevice between the puddle lamp and the door and pry it off (be sure to hold your tongue in just the right position or you'll break the plastic).

After all the screws are out, just pull the door off gently from the edges, there are plastic 'clips' that hold the door on - not to worry, you'll see.

Inside the door you can see the door handle assembly. There is also a turnbuckle which can adjust the length of the arm that connects the door handle and the latch. The bad news is, you have to take the outside handle off to adjust this turnbuckle. It's more time consuming than it is difficult.

Anyway, there are four screws on the bracket that hold the outside handle on.

I found that a pair of simple pliers was the best method for loosening them.

BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THEM INTO THE DOOR ONCE THEY ARE LOOSENED!

Adjusting the turnbuckles is very important and they need to be adjusted to completely eliminate all free play from the external handles when the doors are closed but unlocked.

The standard Jaguar tool kit includes the right open jaw spanners to do the job. Other very small 8 & 7 mm open jaw spanners would also be OK. The front doors are no problem at all; the rears are difficult but possible.

The job can be made a little easier by buying a small 8 mm open jaw and heating and bending the shank about 30 degrees, as near as possible to the jaws and in the flat plane.

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Bought a replacment B&D Handy Steamer, oval shape allows longer food items to be steamed (approx 10"x8"), water res & can be filler while steaming. Price was $25 in local hardware (Jan 09). Not worth fixing the old one IMO.

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