Question about American Standard Heating & Cooling
I have/had an American standard heat pump.
I removed it and will not buy another heat pump.
I've had several brands and the basic thing wrong is the design/concept/complexity trying to use same indoor coil (Evaporator) and expansion valve in two modes.
What has happened to yours, I think is the expansion valve failed in the heat mode and if left there will burn out the compressor.
Another thing is the reversing valve or the control card fails, but in other machines there is a safety pressure cutoff to save the compressor.
You notice when the is supposed to be blowing warm air, but it's cold. This is complicated by the timers for turn on and shut off, so when you observe you can't be sure what's happening.
By this time you have replaced it, so just for info, I think to avoid heat pumps. Think about it. The compressor will be running all year instead of maybe 7 months for cooling. That alone shortens it's life.
And if the temp gets to 40 deg continually, you will be using strip heaters anyway. Some show when "emergency" is on.
Another thing is sizing the unit. Most suppliers will suggest a size for cooling, when in fact you may need say 3 tons for the 1.5 tons heating you will get in the winter. IOW, you're buying a much more expensive unit when you only need maybe 2 tons of cooling.
It depends on the humidity and number of occupants more than building size.
I can and maybe you can run with the equivalent 1 ton heating strip heater, i.e., 4 kw, and install a cheaper unit with a lower EER, say 13, instead of 15. And you get one that is really more reliable because of less complexity. Also the 13's have been around longer, therefore better experience. And they are quieter - smaller fans.
I have come to the conclusion that the high EER machines do not justify the higher cost.
This after 24 years and 8 A/C's of various makes in this location.
Posted on Feb 02, 2015
How old is the unit? Heat pumps don't work when it's real cold, you know it's limits. If it's not real cold outside, then it may be low on gas or such and need a service call.
Posted on Nov 27, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The fans are set to delay for 60-90 seconds to remove all heat from the heat exchanger/heater elements.
If the fan runs any longer than 3-4 minutes after the Emergency Heat shuts off, you may have a bad sequencing relay in the air handler.
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
On the heating element [behind the coil, (the springy thing)], at the top end of the element, there is a little thermistor I think it is called. You will have to remove the fan shroud. With the power off, check for continuity if you have a multimeter. If that is the problem (no continuity), you can pick one up at al local heating supply. Just have it soldered back in and reconnect. If the thermistor 's continuity is okay, remove the main board under the control knobs. I have seen these boards burn in the back where the relays are soldered on. If you're really good with a solder you can try to re-solder it. If not, it's about as cheap to buy a new unit as it is to buy the board. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
SOURCE: Heat pump cycling on and off.
It sounds as if you you have a low charge of refrigerant, r22. When the unit comes on outside, the outdoor coils become the lowside, there is a low pressure switch that is tripping out contactor protecting the compressor.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Sounds like motor has failed. If the red light is blinking it may be telling you what is wrong by the number of blinks. It maybe locked out for some reason or loose wire. Try turning off breakers to inside unit for 5 mins and try again, this may reset unit. But it sounds like a bad motor or circut board. Try running with stat in on position instead of auto in cooling mode.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
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