Question about Shimano Ultegra FD-6800 11SP Front Derailleur

1 Answer

Problem adj 6800 ft der so it doesn`t rub when in high/high gears

Also is it possible to not fray the cable at the anchor pinch bolt? every time it does this.thanks

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You have to place a barrel adjuster in the FD cable to take the slack out of the cable. This will make the FD adjustment much easier to accomplish. For some reason Shimano overlooked the adjuster when supplying parts for the derailleur/cables. You will find it helps with the chain rub in the higher gears. The cable will be very difficult to adjust without the barrel adjuster. I spent a lot of time trying to get it to work without it. Don't waste your time like I did.

As far as the cable unwinding. Place some heat shrink tube on the cable past the pinch bolt. Heat the tubing to constrict around the cable. Then put a cable end on the end of the cable.

Posted on Apr 11, 2014

  • Hal D
    Hal D Apr 11, 2014

    Hopefully this will solve someone else's problem. I see the original post was a while ago. :-)

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1 Answer

How do you replace the rack and opinion on a 92 cutlass ceira


Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936701-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace rack an pinion cutlass ciera 1992


You aren't saying what engine is in it, or whether it is manual or power steering. Here is the R/R procedure for power steering rack for all engine sizes.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1
  1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
  2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
  5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
  6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.
  1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.



Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly
  1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.
To install:
  1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
  2. Install the heat shield.
  3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
  4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
  5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
  6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
  8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2.2L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
  2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
  3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.
  1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
  3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Remove the support fixture.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
  15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.
3.1L Engine (VIN M)
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
  3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
  6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
  7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
  8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
  9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
  1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
  2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
  3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
  4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
  5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
  7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
  8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
  9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.
To Install:
  1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
  2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
  3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
  4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
  5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
  6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
  7. Remove the jack.
  8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
  9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
  10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
  12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
  13. Lower the vehicle.
  14. Remove the support fixture.
  15. Connect the negative battery cable.
  16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
  17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

25936687-ge4w2xkagkibehwv23tkbbb2-2-0.gif

Nov 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to adjust a deraihller on a 1969 schwinn stingray


On a bike this old, your derailleur well be a friction shift style. These are simple. You should find two small screws, usually located close together, usually Phillips head. They may be labeled "H" and "L". This stands for high and low, respectively. The H screw sets the travel limit to the outer most gear, the smallest one in the cluster. The L screw, is just the opposite, setting the travel to lowest gear or largest cog nearest the spokes. Once you have the limits set, put the shifter into "high" gear (chain on the smallest cog), loosen the nut or bolt on the der. that pinches the cable, pull the cable tight with one hand and tighten the pinch bolt/nut with your other hand. Badda-boom! That's it. Test it out, make sure you are not over shifting, if so make minor adjustments to the high/low screws. Once these are set, you rarely ever need to adjust them. All other adjustments are made to the cable tension.

Sep 27, 2015 | Schwinn Cycling

1 Answer

I have a honda trx 350 es my problem is it wont go into any gear the motor was clicking but now its gone dead


Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

Sep 19, 2011 | Quad Cycling

1 Answer

I need to replace crank shaft timing sensor


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Disconnect the electrical connector at the sensor.
  3. Using a 28mm socket and pull handle, rotate the harmonic balancer until any window in the interrupter is aligned with the crank sensor.
  4. Loosen the pinch bolt on the sensor pedestal until the sensor is free to slide.
  5. Remove the pedestal to the engine mounting bolts.
  6. While manipulating the sensor within the pedestal, carefully remove the sensor and pedestal as a unit. To install:
  7. Loosen the pinch bolt on the new sensor pedestal until the sensor is free to slide.
  8. Verify that the window in the interrupter is still in the correct place.
  9. Install the sensor and pedestal as a unit while making sure that the interrupter ring is aligned within the proper slot.
  10. Install the pedestal and tighten the engine mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
3X Sensor
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the sensor harness connection to the sensor. Fig. 1: Unsecure the harness, then unfasten the bolt to remove the CKP sensor 86815102.gif

  3. Unsecure the sensor block bolt.
  4. Remove the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor from the vehicle. Inspect the O-ring for cracks and replace if needed. To install:
  5. Install the new O-ring if needed and lubricate with engine oil.
  6. Install the sensor into the hole in the block.
  7. Install the mounting screw and tighten to 71-88 inch lbs. (8-10 Nm).
  8. Attach the sensor harness connector, then connect the negative battery cable.
Dual Crank Sensor Sections 3 and 4 of this manual also cover testing, removal and installation, and adjustment of many computer controlled components.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the belt(s) from the crankshaft pulley.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  4. Remove the right front wheel and inner fender access cover.
  5. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt, then remove the harmonic balancer.
  6. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector.
  7. Remove the sensor and pedestal from the engine block, then separate the sensor from the pedestal. To install:
  8. Loosely install the crankshaft sensor to the pedestal.
  9. Using tool J-37089 or equivalent, position the sensor with the pedestal attached, on the crankshaft.
  10. Install the pedestal-to-block retaining bolts. Tighten to 14-28 ft. lbs. (20-40 Nm).
  11. Tighten the pedestal pinch bolt 30-35 inch lbs. (3-4 Nm).
  12. Remove tool J-37089 or equivalent.
  13. Place tool J-37089 or equivalent, on the harmonic balancer and turn. If any vane of the harmonic balancer touches the tool, replace the balancer assembly. NOTE: A clearance of 0.025 in. (0.635mm) is required on either side of the interrupter ring. Be certain to obtain the correct clearance. Failure to do so will damage the sensor. A misadjusted sensor of bent interrupter ring could cause rubbing of the sensor, resulting in potential driveability problems, such as rough idle, poor performance, or a no-start condition.
  14. Install the balancer on the crankshaft. Install the balancer retaining bolt. Tighten the retaining bolt to 200-239 ft. lbs. (270-325 Nm).
  15. Install the inner fender shield.
  16. Install the right front wheel assembly. Tighten the wheel nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm).
  17. Lower the vehicle.
  18. Install the belt(s).
  19. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
24X Crank Sensor
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the serpentine belt from the crankshaft pulley.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  4. Remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt, then remove the harmonic balancer.
  5. Disconnect the sensor electrical connector.
  6. Unfasten the sensor bolts, then remove the sensor. Fig. 2: The 24X crankshaft sensor is secured by two bolts 86815103.gif
    To install:
  7. Install the crankshaft sensor to the engine with the two mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
  8. Attach the electrical harness to the sensor.
  9. Using tool J-29113 or equivalent, install the harmonic balancer to the vehicle.
  10. Apply a thread sealer such as GM 1052080 or an equivalent to the threads if the crankshaft balancer bolt, then tighten the bolt to 110 ft. lbs. (150 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Install the serpentine belt.
  13. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Dec 16, 2010 | 2003 Buick Rendezvous

2 Answers

I`ve replaced my steering column and my car won`t start? Do I have to reprogram my computer or something?


Double check the wiring to the ignition unit and make sure everything is still lined up correctly.

Oct 28, 2010 | 1995 Buick Riviera

1 Answer

Brakes are noisy and rub, how do you adjust them? tektrodisc brakes I think..


this is simple, all you need to do is to tighten the adjustment barrel to give the brake cable core slack. or if that dont work than losen the anchor bolt and give the cable a little more slack and re tighten the anchor bolt.
hoffman_kelv_0.jpg

Oct 17, 2010 | Diamondback Topanga 26 Men's...

1 Answer

How to replace steering rack


Copied from AutoZone.com:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Turn the steering wheel to the straight ahead position and remove the key from the ignition.
  3. Turn the wheel counterclockwise in order to lock the steering column in place.
  4. Raise and support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the front wheels.
    WARNING Do not rotate the intermediate shaft once separated from the gear. Possible damage or a malfunction could occur.


    0996b43f807cb0d0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Steering shaft pinch bolt


    0996b43f807cb0d1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Steering gear mounting
  6. Remove the steering gear to intermediate shaft pinch bolt and discard.
  7. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering gear.
  8. Remove both steering gear outer tie rod to knuckle nuts and discard the nuts.
    WARNING Do not attempt to separate the joint using a wedge type tool.
  9. Separate the outer tie rods from the steering knuckles.
  10. Remove the steering gear bolts.
  11. Remove the rear transaxle mount.
  12. Carefully remove the steering gear from the frame and the vehicle through the LH wheel opening.

To install:
  1. Install the steering gear to the frame through the LH wheel opening.
  2. Install the steering gear bolts. Tighten the bolts to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
  3. Install the rear transaxle mount. Tighten the rear transaxle mount to frame bolts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  4. Tighten the rear transaxle mount thru bolt. Tighten the thru bolt to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
  5. Connect the intermediate shaft to the steering gear.
  6. Install a new intermediate shaft pinch bolt. Tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
  7. Install the outer tie rods to the steering knuckles.
  8. Install new outer tie rod nuts. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  9. Install the front wheels.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Adjust the toe if necessary.

Aug 26, 2010 | 2006 Chevrolet HHR

1 Answer

Need torque specs for front wheel cross pin and nut and bolt in fork on 2005 1200 custom


Front axle nut = 50-50 ft. lbs.
Front axle pinch bolt and nut = 21-27 ft. lbs.
Front brake caliper mounting bolts = 25-30 ft. lbs.
Handlebar clamp bolts = 12-15 ft. lbs.
Front Fork
Upper bracket pinch bolts = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Lower bracket pinch bolts = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Fork stem pinch bolt = 30-35 ft. lbs.
Front fender fasteners = 9-13 ft. lbs.

Mar 03, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

Jeep grand cherokee revs for to high before changing gear


Message:
My 2002 Dakota has been somewhat confused about shifting as well. It showed a code P1762. I dropped the pan to install a new fluid filter and fluid-(use only ATF+3 or ATF+4). Since the pan was off I decided to adjust the bands. The front band controls the 2nd gear cluster. The rear band controls the 3rd gear cluster and reverse. For a 2-3 shift, the transmission shifts back to 1st gear with the front band while the rear band engages 3rd gear. If the front band does not release the 2nd gear clutches before the third gear clutches engage, the transmission binds, which shortens the life of the transmission clutches. If the front band releases too early in the shift, the engine will overspeed (sounds and feels like a slip) during the 2-3 shift.
The front band adjusting screw is on the driver's side above the shift linkage. The rear band is inside the fluid pan near the filter.
1. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary. The front band adjuster is on the outside of the transmission and the locknut requires a 3/4" wrench.

2. Using Inch Pound Torque Wrench C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and appropriate Torx� socket (T-40), tighten adjusting screw to 72 in-lb. CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 (from SPX Miller) is needed to reach the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 47-50 in. lbs. torque.

3. Back off adjusting screw the number of turns listed below for your transmission.

4. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten lock-nut to:

41 N�m (30 ft. lbs.) for the front band
34 N�m (25 ft. lbs.) for the rear band
The adjustment screw inside the case is a square head bolt. You will need a 1/4 square head socket to fit your torque wrench.
Band adjustments for each model year:
1994

* Front Band - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/2 turns (all transmissions)
* Rear Band
o 32/42RH - Tighten to 72 in-LB, back off 4 turns
o 36/37/46/47RH - Tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns

1995-1996

* Front Band
o 42RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-1/4 turns
o 46RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE/RH - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1997-1998

* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3-5/8 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2-7/8 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 1-7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns

1999

* Front Band
o 42RE - tighten to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns. (TSB 21-16-98)
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1 7/8 turns
* Rear Band
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns
+ The 47RH rear band requires a 1/4" hex driver, the front band requires a
T-30 Torx driver, the filter is held in place by two screws which require a T-20 Torx drive

2000-2002

* Front Band
o 42RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 3 turns
o 44RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
o 46RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 2 7/8 turns
o 47RE - Tighten band adj. screw to 72 in-lb, back off 1 7/8 turns
From Bill Konolday's 47RE notes: I usually go a little looser than factory
specs on this front band - backing off the adjustment screw 2 or 2 1/4 turns.
Depending on the circumstances I have backed off the band up to 2 1/2 turns.
* Rear Band
o 42RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 44RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 4 turns
o 46RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 2 turns
o 47RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2003

* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 1-3/4 turns
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

2005

* Front Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds,
back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns for diesel vehicles,
or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
* Rear Band
o 48RE - tighten band adj. screw to 72 inch pounds, back off 3 turns

94+ Automatic Transmission Bolt and Nut Torque Specs

* Front band adjustment locknut - 30 ft-lb
* Rear band adjustment locknut - 25 ft-lb
* Transmission pan bolts - 13 ft-lb
I just replaced the solenoid with the recommended transducer and all is fine now. The transducer cost me about $50 at a nearby dealership.
Hope this helps. -zman. rroszman@yahoo.com

Dec 09, 2008 | 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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