Question about Yamaha Pdx-30 Ipod/iphone 30w Dock Speaker System, Blue Pdx30bu

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Plastic on ipod doc broken. I pod no longer charging

Hi. There are 2 plastic spokes (not sure exactly what they are called) that go into the ipod from the doc. The right plastic bit has chipped off, so the ipod no longer charges on the Yamaha. It displays a red flashing light indicating no charge is happening. I'm wondering if this can be fixed? Thanks,

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: volume fix problem

FIX ZONE @ SOUND - STUCK ON "ZONE 2 - FIX" 1. Press "Amp" button (right side of remote - 1/3 way down) 2. Press "Menu" button (center of remote - 1/2 way down) 3. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "Manual Setup" is displayed on receiver 4. Press "Enter" button (green letters) 5. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "3 Option Menu" is displayed on receiver 6. Press "Enter" button (green letters) 7. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "D Multi Zone" is displayed on receiver 8. Navigate from there Good Luck! This worked for me.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: My battery isnt getting charged on my motorbike from engine

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Almost always, your described problem indicates a charging issue. This points to the bike's battery not charging. Suspects would be:

  • voltage regulator (most likely);
  • connectors to voltage regulator (likely). Check/clean corrosion/burnt marks;
  • stator and/or the wires coming from it (least likely).
A CDI is a capacitive discharge ignition. This is an electronic module that fires the ignition coil.

Parts would depend on where you are. Often, other riders would provide information for parts source.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Yamaha FZR 600 not charging correctly with the lights on

I HAD THE SAME ISSUE. CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE OFF O THE MAGNETO, IT SHOULD BE IN THE 25V RANGE. IF THAT CHECKS OUT OK CK THE VOLTAGE IMEDIATLY AFTER THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, I BET IT IS BELOW 14V. THE FZR IS PRONE TO HAVING THE REGULATOR GO BAD (THE OLDER ONES HAVE NO COOLING FINS AND THEY BURN THEMSELVES UP). THE BEST ONE TO BUY IS THE NEWER VERSION FROM A 1999 FZR, IT HAS COOLING FINS WHICH GREATLY PROLONGS THE LIFE. YOU HAVE TO DO SOME SLIGHT WIRING MODS, BUT NOTHING ANYONE COULDN'T DO. SEARCH FOR FZR REGULATOR UPGRADE AND IT WILL EXPLAIN EVERYTHING! I HOPE THIS HELPS! GOOD LUCK!

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

DickCanFixIt
  • 948 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Yamaha V Star 1100A not charging battery

If you take a look at the parts microfiche (make sure this is your bike please), the voltage regulator and rectifier is a little under $70. Labor for installing it would probably be in the $200-300 dollar range at a dealer.

Have you checked the voltage while the bike is running? It could be that the lights are simply drawing more power than the charging system can put out. Put a voltmeter on the bike and start it. Rev engine to 2-4000 rpm (or just ride the bike if you can see the meter while riding). Check with extra lights off and extra lights on. If your voltage is 14+ while riding or reving the engine without the extra lights on I think your charging system is probably OK. If it is below 13 (again, without the extra lights on) I say the charging system is bad.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

tartantyger
  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: how do i charge battery

First, I should explain the difference between most motorcycle batteries and the car batteries that people are more familiar with.

A car battery is usually a "lead-acid" battery, a design largely unchanged, except for the composition of the lead plates, since the turn of the century. The battery is composed of alternating plates of lead and lead dioxide in an acid bath. Adding plates increases the electrical capacity, dividing groups of plates into "cells" increases the voltage available. It's a very basic battery that has worked in stationary and vehicular applications for centuries.

A motorcycle battery is usually an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery, differing from the car battery in only one respect; the space between the plates is filled by a porous, fiberglass-like material that has been saturated by acid. The advantage of the AGM battery is that it is less susceptible to damage from the increased vibration experienced in a motorcycle or high-performance car.

New motorcycle owners are frequently tempted to use the same battery charger they're accustomed to hooking up to the family sedan, but this can, and usually does, cause premature failure of the battery. Because the motorcycle battery is smaller, it requires less current to charge it, and the excess current generates heat. Because the acid does not circulate between the plates of the battery and distribute the heat and gas generated during charging, the battery heats much more rapidly than the car battery. Heat interferes with the chemical processes the battery performs during the charging cycle, and may cause plates to bend, buckle or crack.

Now, you've probably seen "battery tenders" advertised in motorcycle magazines, at Radio Shack, in Walmart and Sears. This is what you should be using - look for a MAXIMUM charge rate of 2 amperes/hour (it's typically described as "amps"), and a reduced "trickle" charge rate (usually automatic) of 1/4 to 1/2 "amp".

To get to the battery, look under the operator's seat (either side) 1"-2" behind the back of the fuel tank; you'll see a nut holding a threaded shaft into tabs protruding from the frame. Loosen and remove the nuts on both sides, lift the seat up until the threaded shafts are completely free of the tabs, then move the seat straight forward. That will free a catch, molded into the underside of the seat, from a loop in the frame that holds the back of the seat down and keeps the seat from moving side-to-side. The seat may then moved out of the way.

Now you will see the battery in the frame; hook the red lead of the battery tender to the battery terminal with a red insulated boot over it, and hook the black lead of the tender to the opposite battery terminal. The battery tender may be left connected for days, weeks or months at a time, but unless the bike is well protected from the weather, it should probably be disconnected after 16-24 hours and the seat reinstalled.

Reinstallation of the seat is the in reverse order of its' removal (above): there is a specification for the nuts - 5 ft.-lbs. (7 nm) - but it's usually sufficient to tighten the nuts snugly on both sides.

Posted on Aug 07, 2010

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