Question about Yamaha Pdx-30 Ipod/iphone 30w Dock Speaker System, Blue Pdx30bu
Hi. There are 2 plastic spokes (not sure exactly what they are called) that go into the ipod from the doc. The right plastic bit has chipped off, so the ipod no longer charges on the Yamaha. It displays a red flashing light indicating no charge is happening. I'm wondering if this can be fixed? Thanks,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: volume fix problem
FIX ZONE @ SOUND - STUCK ON "ZONE 2 - FIX" 1. Press "Amp" button (right side of remote - 1/3 way down) 2. Press "Menu" button (center of remote - 1/2 way down) 3. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "Manual Setup" is displayed on receiver 4. Press "Enter" button (green letters) 5. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "3 Option Menu" is displayed on receiver 6. Press "Enter" button (green letters) 7. Press "TV VOL" button (green letters) until "D Multi Zone" is displayed on receiver 8. Navigate from there Good Luck! This worked for me.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Almost always, your described problem indicates a charging issue. This points to the bike's battery not charging. Suspects would be:
Parts would depend on where you are. Often, other riders would provide information for parts source.
Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
I HAD THE SAME ISSUE. CHECK YOUR VOLTAGE OFF O THE MAGNETO, IT SHOULD BE IN THE 25V RANGE. IF THAT CHECKS OUT OK CK THE VOLTAGE IMEDIATLY AFTER THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, I BET IT IS BELOW 14V. THE FZR IS PRONE TO HAVING THE REGULATOR GO BAD (THE OLDER ONES HAVE NO COOLING FINS AND THEY BURN THEMSELVES UP). THE BEST ONE TO BUY IS THE NEWER VERSION FROM A 1999 FZR, IT HAS COOLING FINS WHICH GREATLY PROLONGS THE LIFE. YOU HAVE TO DO SOME SLIGHT WIRING MODS, BUT NOTHING ANYONE COULDN'T DO. SEARCH FOR FZR REGULATOR UPGRADE AND IT WILL EXPLAIN EVERYTHING! I HOPE THIS HELPS! GOOD LUCK!
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
If you take a look at the parts microfiche (make sure this is your bike please), the voltage regulator and rectifier is a little under $70. Labor for installing it would probably be in the $200-300 dollar range at a dealer.
Have you checked the voltage while the bike is running? It could be that the lights are simply drawing more power than the charging system can put out. Put a voltmeter on the bike and start it. Rev engine to 2-4000 rpm (or just ride the bike if you can see the meter while riding). Check with extra lights off and extra lights on. If your voltage is 14+ while riding or reving the engine without the extra lights on I think your charging system is probably OK. If it is below 13 (again, without the extra lights on) I say the charging system is bad.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: how do i charge battery
First, I should explain the difference between most motorcycle batteries and the car batteries that people are more familiar with.
A car battery is usually a "lead-acid" battery, a design largely unchanged, except for the composition of the lead plates, since the turn of the century. The battery is composed of alternating plates of lead and lead dioxide in an acid bath. Adding plates increases the electrical capacity, dividing groups of plates into "cells" increases the voltage available. It's a very basic battery that has worked in stationary and vehicular applications for centuries.
A motorcycle battery is usually an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery, differing from the car battery in only one respect; the space between the plates is filled by a porous, fiberglass-like material that has been saturated by acid. The advantage of the AGM battery is that it is less susceptible to damage from the increased vibration experienced in a motorcycle or high-performance car.
New motorcycle owners are frequently tempted to use the same battery charger they're accustomed to hooking up to the family sedan, but this can, and usually does, cause premature failure of the battery. Because the motorcycle battery is smaller, it requires less current to charge it, and the excess current generates heat. Because the acid does not circulate between the plates of the battery and distribute the heat and gas generated during charging, the battery heats much more rapidly than the car battery. Heat interferes with the chemical processes the battery performs during the charging cycle, and may cause plates to bend, buckle or crack.
Now, you've probably seen "battery tenders" advertised in motorcycle magazines, at Radio Shack, in Walmart and Sears. This is what you should be using - look for a MAXIMUM charge rate of 2 amperes/hour (it's typically described as "amps"), and a reduced "trickle" charge rate (usually automatic) of 1/4 to 1/2 "amp".
To get to the battery, look under the operator's seat (either side) 1"-2" behind the back of the fuel tank; you'll see a nut holding a threaded shaft into tabs protruding from the frame. Loosen and remove the nuts on both sides, lift the seat up until the threaded shafts are completely free of the tabs, then move the seat straight forward. That will free a catch, molded into the underside of the seat, from a loop in the frame that holds the back of the seat down and keeps the seat from moving side-to-side. The seat may then moved out of the way.
Now you will see the battery in the frame; hook the red lead of the battery tender to the battery terminal with a red insulated boot over it, and hook the black lead of the tender to the opposite battery terminal. The battery tender may be left connected for days, weeks or months at a time, but unless the bike is well protected from the weather, it should probably be disconnected after 16-24 hours and the seat reinstalled.
Reinstallation of the seat is the in reverse order of its' removal (above): there is a specification for the nuts - 5 ft.-lbs. (7 nm) - but it's usually sufficient to tighten the nuts snugly on both sides.
Posted on Aug 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 15, 2012 | Apple iPod Nano 6th Generation MP3 Player
Apr 14, 2010 | Apple iPod nano
Mar 30, 2010 | Apple iPod nano 3rd Generation
Dec 30, 2009 | Apple Mini IPod
Dec 27, 2009 | JBL Radial Speaker Dock Docking Station...
May 18, 2008 | Apple iPod nano
May 12, 2008 | Apple iPod nano
May 09, 2008 | Apple iPod shuffle MP3 Player
73 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: