Question about Maytag Bravos 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Motor malfunctions usually call for service by a professional. There are three main causes of motor failure: lack of lubrication, a defective motor switch, or worn or frozen bearings. A humming sound can be related to a burned-out motor or a defective switch. Check these trouble spots before you call a professional service person or take the motor to a repair shop. Here's how to check a dryer motor:
Step 1: Remove the back access panel. Then reach behind the drum, motor pulley, and idler arm pulley. If these areas are clogged with dirt and lint, undue strain on the motor may be causing the humming noise. Worn or broken belts can also cause a humming noise. Check the belts for wear and damage. If the belts look all right, you may be able to stop the noise by spraying them with fan belt dressing, available at automotive and hardware stores and home centers.
Step 2: Turn the dryer on. The noise you hear may be the whirl of the spinning drum, not the motor. Some noise is normal.
Step 3: Force a little 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) around the ends of the motor shaft. This lubrication may stop the humming noise. If this doesn't solve the problem, remove the motor and take it to a professional service person.The centrifugal switch on the dryer motor may be located on top of the motor. Humming, no motor power, and no heat can be caused by a faulty centrifugal switch. If the switch is externally mounted, check the terminals of the switch to make sure they are tight and not burned. If you spot trouble, remove the switch and take it to a professional service person for testing. A faulty switch will probably have to be replaced. Some centrifugal switches are located inside the motor housing; you won't be able to remove the switch in this case. Remove the entire motor and take it to a professional for repairs.
If the motor hums, but won't run the pulley on the end of the motor shaft, try turning the pulley by hand.Caution: Before turning the pulley, make sure the power to the dryer is turned off.
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
How do you replace the glides/slides? I have a Maytag dryer that's
squeaking, took off front and it's clear it's the glides. Found where
to buy them just need directions for replacing. Anyone know how?
To change the glides you have someone lift the drum--after taking off the front panel--and pull out the glides. We bought the glides locally and just ordered on line the felt pads that go under the glides, as one was missing. So I haven't actually completed the project but should easily be able to once the felt pads arrive.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
This noise will normally come from a defective idler pulley. Access to the idler pulley varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.
When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports. Reach in to the belt and give it tug. It should be taught and have only a little give. The belt should go under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Lift the idler pulley toward the motor to relieve tension on the belt and remove it from the motor pulley.
Turn the idler pulley wheel, it should turn smoothly, quietly and without any wobble. Inspect it for cracks or uneven wear. If the idler pulley does not maintain proper tension or is damaged it should be replaced. Depending upon your model, the entire assembly or just the wheel or bearing may be replaced. Check the bearings as well for excessive clearance also(roller bearings)
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
"AF" means "Air Flow". Your vents are cloged with lint. I have had to vaccum out my vents several times, both inside and out. It's been a bit of a pain.
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
Since you did not provide a model number I picked a similar model for reference using this model number: MDE5721TQO (there are at least 40 different model numbers but the blowers are all the same) You blower is driven directly by the motor so unless the blower itself has come apart or the drive spline in the blower has failed in some way you more than likely have a major build up of lint in your dryer.
You can look here to see the blower location http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5133558&diagram_id=1301439#d1301439
You can turn the motor by hand and see if the blower is turning by losening the housing screws for the blower while using a flashlight. If the blower is turning then you need to find out where the blockage of lint has built up and remove it. I would startt around the lint filter. NOTE The drum will also turn.if you rotate the motor pulley. Just make sure the unit is unplugged while you attempt this. If you do locate the blockage I have found that a well bent into a U shaped METAL coat hanger works well. Do NOT poke any sharp objects into the air ducting areas of your dryer while trying to find any blockages and avoid the heating element area with anything metal or sharp. A vacuum crevice tool works great during this task. Good luck and I do hope you are able to locate the problem based on the information here.
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
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