Question about Washing Machines

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Part that holds washer tub/basket in hqas began breaking apart and part of tub has gaping hole and water leaks, what is the part I need to repair

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  • Master
  • 1,198 Answers

Sounds like you need a new tub, bearing, and bearing support. Check Repairclinic.com for pictures and part numbers, prices, etc. I would try to get the parts locally, shipping may be expensive.

Posted on Nov 26, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: AMANA WASHER WILL LEAKS WATER IN TUB AFTER SPIN CYCLE.

Cylon, sounds like you need to replace the water inlet valve. It's not seating and weeping water. For series 10 the part number would be 40097701. Not that hard of a job. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Feb 21, 2007

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Performa Washer

Vitto, the fill hose for the tub is located up on top of the tub. Its a push in and I have on occasion see them come out or loose. You are going to have to pop the top to get a look at what is going on. First there will be 4 screws on the dispensor assy. each corner. Remove them and lift the cover. Next will be the door. Remove the hinge screws not from the door, but from the body. On the other side will be 2 spacers, remove them . Now lift the door up and off the washer. The front panel will now pull out and come off the 2 clips on the bottom. You will be able to see the bottom. Now there will be two angle clips on each side holding the top down. Remove the screws, clips and the top will lift up. Now you will be able to place the door back on with out screwing it back on and close it. Start a cycle and now you will be able to observe the top hoses and bottom pump and hoses. Identify where the leak is and put this deal behind you. This is an easy gig, just take your time. Catriver.

Posted on Dec 05, 2007

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE HE3T BASKET RUBBING ON THE PLASTIC FRONT TUB

if ripped obvioussly youl need to replace the front rubber bellow, i would remove the bottom panel and have a look inside sounds like you have a broken shock aborber or 2 not properly supporting tub assy

Posted on Feb 28, 2008

SOURCE: eco smart won't drain, smells hot

hi
you commented on hearing water in the machine after the wash , i know that f&p spin bowls have a liquid inside the actual spin bowl system i think it aids in the spin operation of the machine, but if you had something in the drain network then that will stop the machine from emptingout as it all works on a time basis check and see that you are not getting any leaks from the bottom of the machime as your new pump won't last long if it gets wet also if there is water leaking that can be the main seal on the motor shaft failing
cheers grant

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

  • 217 Answers

SOURCE: water level switch doesn't shut off the water

Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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1 Answer

What could be leaking from front left side of my whirlpool sm8525079


These washers have a plastic basket/tub that can crack or get holes in them. if your tub has a hole, you will need to remove the cabinet first, then use a spanner wrench to remove the wash tub. You can then repair the hole with epoxy and reassemble.

If the tub is intact, it may simply be that a hose has come loose. Either way, get out your screwdriver and take the cabinet sides off so that you can see where the water is coming from.

Aug 30, 2015 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

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My in-sink-erator model 5-81 is just over 2 years old and is leaking from the sides whether it's running or not. Is there anything I can do or do I need to contact a professional>


Find out exactly where leak is coming from.
You say water is coming from the side... is that where the pipe connects? Then take apart pipe and reassemble pipe using instructions below, and use rectorseal on joints as described below..
Is water coming from where dishwasher connects to disposal? Then tighten the clamp.
Is water coming from top where disposal connects to sink? Run paper towel around top to check for moisture, and then use steps below to dissemble disposal and re-install same disposal.
Is water coming from a rusted hole in disposal. Then replace disposal using steps below:

Here are the disposal steps:
When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket or change pipes.
How to: Disconnect p-trap and tailpiece going into disposal.
Rotate connector disk clockwise that holds disposal to sink basket.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket with new connector disk.
Use new connector washer.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.

geno_3245_201.jpg

If this is your home, you want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.

geno_3245_202.jpg

Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image below, loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.

geno_3245_203.jpg

When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Apply good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.

Add a comment

Dec 29, 2010 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Badger 1/2 hp in sink erator (garbage disposal) steady stream leaks from the bottom near the reset button. It appears to be coming from a drain outlet (a small hole, dia. approx size of smallest screw ),...


You might be able to buy time filling hole with epoxy or silicone caulk and let dry for 2 days.
10-year old garbage disposal had a good run.
Disposal will need to be replaced at some point.

When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket.
How to: Disconnect p-trap and tailpiece going into disposal.
Rotate connector disk clockwise that holds disposal to sink basket.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket with new connector disk.
Use new connector washer.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.

If this is your home, you want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.
geno_3245_113.jpg

Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image below, loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.
geno_3245_112.jpg


When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Apply good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.
geno_3245_114.jpg

Nov 26, 2010 | Ace Hardware InSinkErator Badger 5, 1/2 HP...

1 Answer

Whirlpool washer - basket will not fill with water...to a certain level and water leaks out


Sounds like the outer tub has a hole in it. Some of the newer models had a problem with the inner tub (basket) would rub a hole in the outer tub about 2/3 the way up.

Jan 06, 2010 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Machine is leaking water from bottom of unit


If its not leaking from the filler hoses you will have to remove the front cover to see where it is coming from.
Pay close attention to the inlet valves, they sometimes fail.
On one machine I worked on, I found a broken aluminum bolt on the clamp block that holds the basket assembly to the transmission crank.
This allowed the basket to drop on one side and scrub the plastic tub creating a good sized hole.
I replaced both bolts with brass (both brass bolts cost less than one OEM aluminum bolt) and repaired the hole in the tub from the bottom with plastic filler.
Good Luck
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Aug 07, 2009 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Water leaks out of bottom of washer


The screw in the washer tub, is not a factor in this. I'm not sure what brand of machine you have, but several machines have a fill hose that connects to the outer tub of the machine. Sometimes when a machine gets loaded heavily, during the spin cycle items in the machine can actually knock the fill hose right out of the tub. Then when the machine trys to fill the next time, all the water runs down the outside of the tub and leaks out of the bottom of the machine.
Repair is to open up the machine. You'll need to remove the top cover and that will give you access to the hose/tub connection. It may be as simple as reinserting the hose back into the drum or you may need to replace it if it got too damaged and won't stay in the hole correctly.
If you need specific how to's on opening up the machine, get back to us with the make and model info and we'll be happy to help you open that washer up!
K

Aug 01, 2009 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

Noisey during spin


yes you are right noise during spin cycle is due to faulty bearing. If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly  and the outer shell with the tub bearing. 
Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.
 
Pictures of this job...
A sure indication was the brown junk/gookus leaking out if the rear bearing area and the belt has spewed it around in the drum that the rear bearing and seal was bad...
Picture1 - Picture2
The whole outer shell and basket come out to do this repair....what bad bearing and rusted shaft looked like...
Picture1 - Picture2 - Picture3
I had to remove the back panel. Undo the pump hose & water level hose, remove the 2 shocks, remove the motor, undo the front boot from the outer panel and remove the 2 springs to lift the whole assembly out from the back to work on it.
Picture1 ( boot pushed inside ) Help page1 - Help page2
It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.


May 07, 2009 | LG WD-16115FD Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE commercial washing machine


It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Oct 24, 2008 | GE WNRD2050DWC 3.5 Cu. Ft. Commercial...

3 Answers

Ge washer leaks when you let it fill to top


feel in the back of your outter tub towards the top and chances are you will find a hole ge's love doing this if it is not under warranty you can repair with some JB weld with out replacing the tub

Oct 09, 2008 | GE WBSE2090A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Worn outer tub


yea youl need to replace the tub alright, cgances are the bolts holding the inner tub to the transmission shaft have also broken off, which is why the inner tub spun off kilter and rubbed a hole in the outer tub,. the bolts (2 of them ) woulds have benn locking the inner basket to the tranny shaft, visible after removing the agitator

Apr 14, 2008 | Frigidaire FWS1339A Top Load Washer

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