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Olympus fe 46 will not turn on with new batteries... light blinks, can hear lense try to open...then shuts off

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  • Cameras Master
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Looks like a mechanical problem. Lenses become stuck sometimes for lots of different reasons. When the motor does not work, a gear is broken, or sometimes two gears are not sitting correct. Some debris between gears cab do the same.
I would try to just push back the lens a little (gently). And then try switching it on.
Then there is something that could be with batteries. They can be low on power even when the come new out of the shop. Alkeline batteries are not a good option for cameras, because they have less than half the capacity of an NiMH battery. NiCD rechargeable batteries should never be used and manganese (Zinc-Carbon) batteries should be avoided too. Both can't deliver the voltage needed for a camera to function proper.

Posted on Nov 25, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: olympus FE-230

Same with mine. I'm going to bring it to a camer repair shop.

Posted on Jan 12, 2008

voodoomox
  • 1689 Answers

SOURCE: olympus FE-190 lense

If the internal lens barrel gets knocked out of alignment it will cause that condition. If the camera senses that the lens is not in the proper position or not moving, it will turn back off rather than cause more damage. Pushing on the lens barrel to try to fix it will usually cause more problems than it already has. It has to be disassembled to be repaired.

at this point you may also want to check on your warranty status.

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

yvonmagic
  • 82 Answers

SOURCE: olympus fe-340 doesnt stay on

go get duracell rechargeble the green one digital camera need powerfull battery let me khow

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

BillB-SA
  • 2761 Answers

SOURCE: my camera keeps turning off when i try to take a picture even whe

Your problem may be due to weak/worn out batteries or corrosion on the battery contacts inside the camera which can prevent the full power of the batteries from flowing into the camera. Try this free fix before you do anything else: remove the batteries and wipe the camera contacts firmly with a dry cloth (heavy corrosion may require cleaning with a wire brush, steel wool, or sandpaper). Remove any residue that may have fallen into the battery compartment during cleaning, then wipe both ends of the batteries and place them back in the camera. This cleaning clears the problem about 90% of the time. If it doesn't work for you, your batteries may need to be replaced, or the camera may have a problem that requires professional repair.

Posted on Nov 29, 2009

  • 11967 Answers

SOURCE: Olympus FE-280 8 megapixel Lens won't open.

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens error”, or “lens error, restart camera”. Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.
The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many Canon's, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.
A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.
Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.
The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:
Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.
Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.
Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.
Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.
Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in “no heat” setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).
Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.
Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

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http://olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_servicerepair.asp

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This sounds real familiar; I think I may have just responded to a post from your daughter -
This is what I suggested:

If the batteries are a common type, install them into another device to see if they really are still OK or buy a cheap digital multimeter or battery tester.
The latter can be bought at the chain hardware stores or Radio Shack and draw some current to lightly test the load capabilities of them.

These batteries do fail to a short (act like a piece of wire); NICads are the worst but lithium ion and NiMh can fail as well.
The 'sand' diagnosis may be right but what you describe could still be only batteries.

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In addition to the one year World Wide Warranty,
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