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This usually occurs with high water pressures. It may help by installing a water reducing valve at the water meter. When a dish washer or washing machine turns on and off the water you will get a water hammer noise. The pipe fixings have come loose over time and the pipe bangs against the fixings. You can reduce this noise by installing a water hammer device on the all the taps and then connecting the hoses from the dishwasher and washing machines to the water hammer devices.
I suggest you check out the best options with a plumber.
The valve through which water comes in2 the washer is opened
electrically and it is the what-type-of-water-u want-2-use selector switch that
controls the opening & closing. E.g if u select cold water it opens valve for
cold water and closes valve for hot water. There is a place (most likely at the
valves where pipes meet washer) where electrical connection e.g due 2rust, has
been lost. Thus the valves r not being opened by the selector.
When a pipe freezes the ice picks up and breaks loose all the scale and minerals that have settled on the inside of the pipe. When you get it thawed the water will be loaded with chunks and bits that will clog the little screen at the point where the hose mounts to the machine. If you're unlucky the solenoid valve for the cold water has also gotten stuff in it and is plugged- clean the screen first, if that doesn't do it then try tapping on the cold hose right where it goes into the machine (with the machine set to fill with cold water), you can clean out the solenoid valve in this way.
this is usually electrical problem. le means lock rotor error. my experience with this is sensor problem. it could be switch to the door lid of the machine, normally open or close water level switch problem or anything causing motor not to get any electricity. open up the compartment where the power and electricity enters the machine. check the continuity of the cable there. if you can spot a contact switch, take out the switch. try to check continuity using a multimeter at all positions of the contact switch. If both positions give you same reading, the switch is not working. get a replacement switch or if you cannot get exactly the same one, you can buy one that is close to the original and modify it. i have replaced my korean switch with an omron one but the amps rating is downsized from 16amps to 15amps. still the machine is working fine now. cheers.
Thats strange, F10 means no cold fill.
Ok back to basics, you can check the pressure switch by taking off the tube and gently blowing into it and I mean gently, you should hear a click if its ok - make sure the other end is'nt blocked, blow it out with a cycle pump near the drum end
Did you open the water valve?Is there anything on the pipe connection to the washing machine?Sometimesn there are some seals that come on them..Check that and if this does not solve your problem then contact the seller as it is brand new so messing about with it may mess the warranty..
This is possibly the level sensors, which tell the dishwater when to stop filling and when to start washing.
IMPORTANT: AS SOON AS YOU REMOVE ANY OF THE MACHINE CASINGS THERE ARE LIVE SWITCHES AND MAINS SUPPLIES EXPOSED, DO NOT TOUCH OR TAMPER WITH ANY PART, UNLESS THE POWER IS OFF AND THE PLUG REMOVED FROM THE MAINS SOCKET.
You will have to find the water inlet flow path, this is sometimes behind the side casing. Check the water flowing through all the channels (Some machines look quite complicated with loads of thin pipes running in all directions)
Check carefully that all of the pipes and all connections to the pipes are clean and not obstructed. This may solve your problem.