Question about Hotpoint Ultima WF860 Front Load Washer
I've replaced the element and still no heat but not sure which thermostats/sensors I would need to replace to see if it's those,
Before you replaced the element did you test the receptacle for 240 volt? Did you turn off the breaker and turn it back on to reset it in case one side tripped and it wasn't visible?
Posted on Nov 25, 2013
Testimonial: "Hi, no, haven't tested the source and I'm assuming I'd have to buy a tester? The breaker, what's that?"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am a retired engineer of 20 years, and its about a year since i worked on combination washer/dryers but if the heater elements fine and power comes from timer there must be cut out somewhere around where it should warm up, look all round the machine one may be hidden or hard to spot there maybe about 3 one of them one of them could be a trigger device (you can press a button to reset it) that style is a very small cube about the size of a sugar lump with2 spades on it, others look like a small flat oval or round shape the size of a five pence piece with 2 spade wires on them, remove the plug from wall and remove these spades and check the contacts for continuity, you need not remove from machine to do so, no circuit + no heat, replacement item not expensive, thats where to start based on the information given, check the sensors you mention again, it sounds like your so close, good luck and work safe
Posted on Sep 09, 2007
SOURCE: washer dryer not heating up
both the 'wash' & the 'dryer' have their own heating elements, If the 'wash' completes its full cycle including 'spin', then I suspect this heat element is ok.Re the dryer, most likely the heat element circuit is 'open circuit' somewhere, could be the element, thermal fuse, thermostat, or a wire burned out
Posted on Oct 23, 2007
its seems you're doing your home work. that cylindrical part is the thermostat itself. it should have a resistance in the range of kilo ohms. around 10 kohm to 25 kohms. you can try to change the range of your testing equipment so that you could be sure that te thermostat is really open circuit.
if there is no resistance, then that is the problem. if there is resitance in the kilo ohms range then it could still be ok and you need todo some further testing.
you can check for voltage presence at the terminlas of the heater. if there is no voltage then it could be the relay on the power board that supply voltage to the heater.
or the board itself.
i hope i was able to help..please rate me..tnx
Posted on Jul 11, 2008
there is a safety device to prevent overheat. this can be a resetteble stat ie with a little button in the middle - press this button and there may be a little click as it resets. dryer will then work.
other type of safety device is a thermal fuse. this will be mounted on top of the dryer duct inside a sleeve. test for continuity and if open circuit, replace it
Posted on Sep 07, 2008
Make sure the economy button is not selected if it has one, as this bypasses the heater..
you say you have had element checked and seems o/k, to be certain it is o/k then test with a meter when it is on heat stage in the prog, and make sure you have a 240V reading across the heater terminals, if you have and it does not heat, then the element is faulty.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
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