Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
The digital display will come on but then time left is not correct. It was near the end of a load when it stopped. It's only 18 months old.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
occurs due to belt slippage. I would check your belts (look for cracks.
Check the belt tension as well, most washers have an adjustment,
normally on the motor that allows you to increase the tension of the
If part of a belt gets torn and it is long enough, it will hit any part of the washing machine within range and make a clicking noise at every revolution of the motor.
I am pretty sure you need new belts. You should be able to remove a few screws and open the back cover. Between the pulleys there is a tensioner...loosen that so you can remove the belt easily. replace it with a new belt and adjust the tension.
hope this helps
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
remove the top access panel 3 screws in top rear.
now look around and push on the drum from top
it has suspension shocks and springs like your car they should resist any movements.
look/wiggle the concrete balance blocks , no cracks or loose.
inside the tub are the arm solid /not loose.
run it with the top open what do you see/hear and where
look under the rubber flap in front did anything get under the tub
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
If the washer won't finish a spin cycle, it probably means that your timer went bad or stalled. You can take the control panel off and look at the contacts for scorching or corrosion.
Posted on Sep 21, 2008
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
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