I need to change oil and the fluid in the primary? How and where do I find the and how do I change them. I purchased 5 qts of Synthetic Screaming Eagle oil and an oil filter. HJust not sure where and how?
Hi Denisce, the best way to change oil is when the engine is at operating temperature or after you come in from a ride. The engine oil is drained from the oil pan directly underneath the transmisson and the oil drain plug is located on the left side rear corner. There is a rubber jiffy stand bumper that is usually in the way but it will easily pull off (usually) Also the drain plug for the primary chaincase is in very close proximity, at the rear of the primary chaincase cover, so both fluids can be changed at the same time into a large bowl type container that that will hold at least 2 gallons of oil. Warning!!!! the engine and primary oil will be oven hot so be carefull when removing the drain plugs. Hint leave dipstick in when removing drain plug, it helps slow down the initial rush of oil. Once drain plug is unscrewed just let the plug fall into the drain pan or tub, you can retrieve it later with pliers or a magnet, you want minimum contact with hot oil. Now you can unscrew the dipstick, the large knob on top of the transmission cover right front corner. Remove primary drain plug and the square inspection cover in the middle of the primary cover. Next if you have forward controls, unbolt the linkage piece that is right in front of oil filter to allow easier access. And now for the fun part, start by placing a piece of thin cardboard underneath the filter as this will deflect oil that will run out and get all over your nice clean engine cases and frame as you unscrew the oil filter that most of the time seems like its welded to the oil filter mount. Go to an automotive store and purchase a decent claw type oil filter wrench, the strap type leaves me with sadness and depression in its falure to do the job. That being said do what ever it takes to remove and sometimes destroy the filter ie: large channel locks, long drifts or punches, hammer and long chisel, I'm not kidding I have destroyed many a filter that was put on too tight and it's quad ring not properly lubricated. Hopefully you won't have this problem. There is an aftermaket company whoose name exscapes me thats offers an oil filter that has a large nut welded on its end for easier removal. Next retrieve the drain plugs and inspect the magnets on the end, powder or fibrous like accumulation is normal, however metal chunks are not and should be cleaned and taken to a professional technician for examination and recomendations. Clean and replace drain plugs torque the engine oil drain plug to 14-21 ft lbs. Clean and replace primary oil drain plug tighten firmly to snug as this is a tapered pipe thread and over tightening can crack the primary cover. Lubricate the new filter quad ring with with oil, grease, or my personal favorite anti seize. Screw on filter untill it touches it's mating surface on the oil filter mount then an additional 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Re-assemble shift linkage and re-install jiffy stand bumper. Using a funnel pour in 26 oz. of syn 3 into primary chaincase and re-install inspection cover and torque screws to 84-108 inch lbs. Pour in 80 ounces of syn 3 into trans top oil spout where the screw on dipstick lives and screw in dipstick. Fire up engine watch for oil pressure lite to go out and let idle for a minute, during this time check for leaks, shut off and re-ckeck dipstick for proper cold level mark, add oil if needed. Thus ends my novel on oil and filter change. Good luck
Jul 11, 2011 |
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