Question about Pass & Seymour 1595SWTTRWCC4 COMBINATION GFCI REC/SWITCH 15A WHITE
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The wires that you taped up are most likely the wires that feed that outlet and the outlet that isn't working anymore in the bathroom. The proper way to fix your problem would be to do one of the following:
Turn off all electrical power to that circuit. If you are unsure, turn the whole panel off. The inconvenience of resetting your household clocks isn't worth your life.
1) If the screws on your new outlet have spaces for two wires, reattach the disconnected wires under the same screws as the ones feeding the new outlet.
2) Cut yourself a 8" piece of black, white and green or bare copper wire. Disconnect the wires feeding the new outlet. Twist all three wires together, color to color and twist a wirenut on each connection. You should have the three black wires twisted together, the white wires twisted together and the green or bare wires twisted together. Now take the 8" wires and reconnect them to the outlet. Black going to the bronze screw, white going to the silver screw, and green or bare going to the green screw.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
You're right, green goes to ground.
Black wire connects to Hot wire from breaker box
Red goes to Load (fan, light, motor)
Ok which wire on the switch goes to the Load?
And which goes to Hot from breaker box?
You can test or you can simply hook up the device. If it doesn't work, swap the two wires.
It just won't work until the 2 wires are correct.
Posted on Oct 24, 2010
I answer questions for free
I work with timers and electrical devices.
If I understand correctly you replaced a 3-way switch.
The new switch has 3 screws (plus green ground screw)
You put the Hot wire on the dark screw correctly.
You attached the two travelers to the brass-colored screws.
The two travelers are red and white.
You connected the ground wire to the green screw.
The ground wire is not supposed to be connected to with the white wire, and I doubt it is because that would trip the breaker.
The lights are working correctly.
If you followed the formula above to the letter, then the lighted switch should light up.
My best guess at this point is that the lighted switch is defective.
The Pass and Seymour webpage does not have manuals to look at like Leviton and Lutron products.
As a result I can't pour over a manual and put a magnifying glass on the wiring and wording to see if there is something we've missed.
But it's just not that complicated ... the light switch should light up.
At this point, I suggest you re-read the instructions (just in case?) and then swap the switch for another one ... or get different brand.
Posted on Nov 04, 2010
The cord that runs to your light contains two wires.
The cord switch interrupts one wire.
The second wire runs uninterrupted between wall plug and light.
The photo below is not the same switch as yours, but it shows how one wire is interrupted and the other wire is uninterrupted.
Which wire do you want to interrupt?
Look at the wall plug.
Is the plug polarized, where one blade of the plug is wider?
If the plug is polarized, then one blade is wide and the other is narrower.
Each blade of the plug feeds one of the two wires going to lamp.
Locate the narrower blade, and the wire that comes from that side of plug.
The narrow-blade wire is the wire you want to interrupt when installing the cord switch.
If the plug is not polarized, then choose one wire.
Posted on Nov 09, 2010
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