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True t23 not cooling

Recently moved true t23 from one building to another. Worked fine before moving it. Waited about 36 hours before plugging in. Now it runs, but does not get cool. Help...please

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: Cooler no longer cooling

That POP noise sounds as though it is the overload on the compressor. Although personally I would describe it as a CLICK. If it is then you are either looking at a start device failure (relay or capacitor) or more likely a compressor failure. If you check underneath at the compressor side (black circular unit) and put your hand on the compressor if it is hot you are probably looking at a new compressor. Unless you have electrics for the compressor the only real solution is to have this confirmed by a fridge engineer. If it is the relay I would expect a bill of around £80 if it is the compressor thn it can be between £200-£400 depending on the size of the compressor. Hope this is of some help.

Posted on Sep 11, 2007

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farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: True TD-36-12-S Bottle Cooler

1st check the outter coil and make sure you can shine a flash light through the coil. If not blow out with compressed air and look again. A dirty coil may be your problem.

2nd check the inside coil it may be blocked with frost - ice
3rd the fan both in and out have to be running.
4th check the door seals

you could be low on refrigerant or have a bad thermostat but eliminate all else before going to these 2 problems.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

  • 274 Answers

SOURCE: True GDM-12 - Unit runs, but won't cool below 60 degrees,

Is it very hot out side the unit.recharging may not hurt is it cleaned the lint could be trapping the radiator were the coolan goes through to cool down try cleanning underneath before recharging

Posted on Jul 26, 2010

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: have a true ttp67 that freezes when turned on

Do you mean the product freezes or the coil inside of the box freezes?

If it's the product check the thermostat setting - should be on 3 to 5. Most of my customers use a setting of 5.

If the coil is freezing up it could be the thermostat or a refrigeration problem that would require a tech to check pressures.

Posted on Dec 12, 2010

machinetech7
  • 1344 Answers

SOURCE: I have a True GDM10 that won't cool. Motor runs normal, Evap fan is running, no ice build up, just won't cool. Is this a coolant problem and can a True GDM10 be recharged? See no hook ups in t

First let me ask, are you sure the compressor is running? If you verified that it was running by vibrations in the compressor area just know that the condenser fan can also cause those if your machine has one. The way to tell is if the compressor is generating heat. With that said, assuming that the compressor is running, and all applicable fans are running, you need to determine if the machine was losing cool over time or did it happen overnight? If the latter of the two you'll need to isolate where the leak is, be it the evaporator or the compressor area. To actually add freon to the system if no access ports are available you;ll need to get a piercing valve, I personally use pt# bpv-31 bullet piercing valves.

Posted on Jun 16, 2012

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Frig freezer wont get cold enough after move . 35 degress then back up to 45 . cleaned everything good . coils everything . worked fine till moved . waited 24 hours after move to plugg in . help


Hi Kim, Before you check out the link below, Read about your refrigerator not cooling?Is your older or newer model refrigerator plugged in, getting power, the lights are on inside but the fridge will not cool and the freezer won't freeze? If your refrigerator or freezer has suddenly stopped cooling and the freezer won't freeze, we have multiple solutions for you.If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start. The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.


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You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

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Hi,


Here is a tip that I wrote on moving refrigerators...if you did not do it this way then you may well have ruined a perfectly good refrigerator.

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If you already have moved it wrong, you can sometimes get it working by plugging it in and unplugging it a number of times with an hour or so in between.

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Fan motors are great item to give off a burning smell when failing.
You have one in the freezer compartment behind the back panel.
You should be able to hear it when you open the door to the freezer.
A second motor is behind the cover panel at the bottom rear of the machine near the compressor. Failure of either motor can cause no cooling, and a burning odor.
There is a calrod heater located in the freezer compartment behind the real panel that can short and burn, but it would not immediately cause rapid cooling failure unless it burned a hole in the evaporator causing a total loss of refrigerant. ( I've seen it happen, but it's rare). Beyond those items wiring runs throughout the machine and can be suspect especially if the machine was transported on it's side. Refrigerators should always be moved in an upright position.

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If has a electronil controlboard i would say it is faulty.Cheak on warranty.

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