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You need to quickly throttle (left joystick) all the way down whenever you're about to crash or blade strike. Both motors have clutch to spin freely when in neutral. They will bounce off of anything if they can, i.e. if your hand isn't still pegging the throttle. But, if the blade (or blades) hit something that stops them while throttle is still being applied, one of three things will happen. 1) Blade will stop abruptly, putting grossly abnormal strain on the motor and those tiny little brushes inside. Motor may burn out. Every fraction of a second that throttle is being applied while blades cannot move, irreparable damage is almost certainly being done to the motor(s). 2) Blade(s) will break, maybe taking gears or shaft along for the ride. 3) or sometimes nothing seems to have happened, bird clunks to ground, you right it and continue flying.
however, if you throttle fully down, the motors engage clutches automatically and are effectively in neutral, spinning freely allowing the blades to bounce harmlessly off of whatever.
Throttle down when accident nears, and your motors will last for ages.
After reading dozens of similar problems on here about the Vornado fans squealing (and rattling) it seems they are in need of some 3-in-1 oil for the bearings and any moving parts in and around the motor area. Also good to keep the fan clean by wiping down and removing front grill and the fan blade...A high pressure duster or spray air canister for the motor body etc. should get out any dust inside the unit. good luck!
It sounds like you bought a lemon possibly. I am thinking that the gears are bad. What you can do is remove the blade and unplug the saw. locate where the screws holding the bearing cover are and remove them to get to the gear and check it. Let me know if you need more help
First, let me say that the general principal of fuel delivery ***to the spark plug*** depends on several things.
Proper air pressure at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor)
Proper “fuel pattern” at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor/nozzle)
Proper amount of ***air & fuel*** at the nozzle (provided by the rotor/motor/nozzle)
Proper ***air flow (cfm) through the combustion chamber (provided by the fan blade/motor)
Proper rpm’s of the motor, which affects all of the above.
On your heater the first step is to set the air pressure to specs. Instructions are on the www.reddyparts.com website. This pressure setting directly affects fuel delivery & fuel atomization
This nozzle rule will only apply if everything is correct as far as fuel delivery applies. The pump pressure must be correct- not almost correct. Set the pressure with a low-pressure gauge that registers12-15 psi max. A gauge with a higher scale just will not read close enough to satisfy the system.If the pressure is not correct, the above rule will not apply.Instructions for setting the pressure can be viewed at http://reddyparts.com/pressure.htm.
Next, if the fan is OK (correct & intact) look at the NOZZLE. DESA recommends annual replacement of the nozzle, which is a wear item. Naturally, annual usage varies, so, wear will depend on annual usage. A worn nozzle produces a cone shaped SPRAY rather than a cone shaped FOG. A spray drowns the spark, where a fog gets ignited, provided it contacts the spark. ALSO, the pattern from a worn nozzle can completely miss the spark (combustion??? Hardly!). When the top is lifted the change in airflow allows a false correction in the combustion chamber, allowing combustion, but when the top is replaced the flame is extinguished. A restricted nozzle or a restricted fuel filter will also distort the fuel pattern and create the same symptom. Also, like the fan blade, make sure that the correct nozzle is installed. Nozzles get swapped, too.