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r u sure circuit breaker is good? did u check the washer terminal black or timer for voltage??
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
WASHER WILL NOT START:
If your washing machine won't start, begin by looking at the power source. First of all, is the washing machine plugged in? If it is, has it tripped a circuit breaker or blown a fuse? Check and reset the breaker (or replace the fuse) if necessary.
The main control for the washing machine is the switch inside the lid. If this has stopped working for some reason, your washing machine won't start. It's not especially difficult to troubleshoot this on a washing machine. You might have to open the top to access the switch. With the power on, depress the switch and listen for a click. If you don't hear one, the switch MAY BE BAD and will need to be replaced. Confirm defectiveness with a multi meter checking for continuity OHMS. An open circuit reflects a bad switch..
If the switch works but the washing machine still won't start, check to see if your washing machine has a special fuse for the lid switch. It will usually be inside the control panel. If it's blown, you'll need to replace it before the washing machine will start.
The problem could be with the door interlock. If the lights come on but the machine won't start, this might well be the cause. This could either be down to the wiring that runs to the door interlock, or the door catch not activating the interlock itself.
Some models of washing machine use a mechanical timer knob and won't run until the water in the machine has filled to the selected level. If the knob doesn't line up properly with the graphics on the control panel, you can try to troubleshoot the washing machine problem by advancing the timer a little. When you've done this, pull it out a little way and see if the washing machine will start properly.
Push start switch may need to be tested with a multi meter for continuity OHMS should show a closed circuit when pushed in or turned on.
If you've run several loads, one after another, without any problem but suddenly find your washing machine refuses to start, overheating could be the cause. The simple way to discover whether this is the problem is to give the machine ample time to cool down, say for a couple of hours, and then try it again. If it works fine, overheating has been the problem and you may have a motor with bad windings.
Check to see if any power to that outlet to see if you have some power by plugging in a light or other electrical device. No power? check circuit breaker for Washer electrical outlet. If it pops back, you have a short somewhere. Unplug washer then try circuit breaker again. If the circuit breaker stays on, you have a problem in the Washer. Call Service man or may be cheaper to find a lightly used replacement, or buy new.
First of all, never reset a breaker more the once. If it trips twice it's not going to magically, "heal " if you keep resetting it.
Two possibilities. Bad breaker or internal short in the machine.
Replace the breaker with one not tripping and then check out the machine for shorts.
Just switching out parts is a less specific and more costly solution.
Your assumption is correct, if you have a household circuit breaker popping, you have a short or over current situation. If you have too many other things plugged into the same circuit you could be overloading that breaker. Depending on how your home is wired, you could have a few (older homes may have quite a few) outlets feed by a single breaker. If you have used the treadmill in that outlet (with the same items plugged into that circuit), the breaker it's self MIGHT be going bad (popping at too low of current).
For safety, inspect the power cord, for any damage, and be replaced if there is any.
If the power core is undamaged, I would try plugging the treadmill in another circuit. Choose an outlet that was not affected when the breaker popped. It you use an extension cord to get to another outlet, be sure it's rated for enough current. If it still pops the same breaker it's the same circuit, and you need to plug it in somewhere else (probably in another room). If a different breaker pops, then the short in in your treadmill. At this point you will need to know something about electricity to further isolate the short.
see the diagrams attached and you must test for to isolate the short. the short can be a) power cord short b) outlet wall faulty with ground test and repiar c) ground to chassis. d) filter short e) power switch short f) coil or transformer faulty. and step on until you elminate the short USE the DVOM or VOM. g)motor h)board main Before to do something RUN THE software calibration for diagnose, troubleshooting, and fix it. God bless you
To be short, the only thing in the machine that really has the capability of causing that is the compressor. Its got a floating short in and when it makes contact it trips the outlet/breaker. Check for any exposed wires just to be sure but I'm pretty certain that the compressor is the culprit and either it or the machine needs to be replaced
HI A loud pop can be a couple of things. Usually it is a ruptured hose, or a hose the has separated from its keeper.. This can explain why it is you are popping the circuit breaker. Water is spraying on an electrical circuit, and causing the short. The other thing that pops is when you blow the circuit board but then you would have a burnt smell.