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normally a job for 2 or more people
one way is to remove the retainer bolts and undo the clamps on the transom
have a mate lift the front of the trailer so that the leg sits on the ground and the transom moves below the clamp plate while you steady the motor
lean the motor back slightly while he lowers the trailer down then he can come around and help you lay the motor down onto the ground
to move the motor around use something like a fridge removal trolley where the clamp plate can hook over a bar with the leg sitting on the bottom of the trolley
no. a unmodified transom bracket may need to be moved not removed. Since the tilt motor is out you will need to manually lift the engine. you can see the picture diagram at www.yamaha-motor.com. click on outboard motors,parts and service, view parts catalog. find your year make and model by following steps listed at top. select power trim and tilt assembly. in the picture you will see the location of the Manuel release valve on the starboard side. turn the Manuel release valve then lift the engine. tie it up or use a stand to keep it up,do not use the tilt lock. with the engine in full tilt position, you can see the motor. some brackets are modified were you can remove the motor without moving the transom bracket. If unmodified you'll need to follow these steps. (1) lower the engine back down.the steering arm needs to be removed from the steering cable and swung forward. do not remove steering arm from engine. on the starboard side of the engine you will see the steering cable going into the steering cable tube. (2)a 1 1/6 nut secures the cable to that tube remove it and slide cable out do not remove it.(3) lift engine again and secure it. your about to remove the motor mount bolt so make sure you secure the motor completely (4)remove upper and lower transom to bracket bolts remove bolts on the port side only.(5) you will see three bolt that go through the transom bracket to the trim and tilt assembly. remove them.(6) if all bolts are removed you will be able to slide the port transom bracket to the left out of the way(7) remove tilt/trim motor.
i will exchange this for you, free shipping no charge, just ship it to me to inspect and i will send you the transom ducer no charge, if you have a bronze thru hull with speed and temp to trade for a plastic transom mount with speed and temp, let me know
I have a 1979 Johnson 15hp Long shaft, and as a single motor just followed the rule of a shortshaft motor for a short transom and a longshaft for a deep transom. You have a little adjustment in the mount clamp. You want enough shaft not to cavitate and want the trim fin below the hull. If this is a kicker motor you want it deep enough for water pickup but less deep for drag on fixed mount.
Assuming "tiller arm" is the steering arm (connects to steering actuator and disappears into transom plate, lay on top of engine - not running - and have a friend turn steering wheel, black arm that is coming out of transom and moving is steering arm), problem is most likely the seal on the vertical steering shaft. This shaft connects the steering arm to the gimble ring. Problem can be confirmed by visually checking for water coming from just below the steering arm with boat in water, or residue starting in same area with boat out of water. If this is confirmed to be the problem, repair is quite extensive. Entire transom assembly needs to be taken apart - sometimes requires removal of engine - then the seal can be replaced and the transom assembly put back together. Other items to check in the area would be the wiring for trim sender and limit switch and through hull gear lube fitting (if boat is new enough).
look for clips around the pin inside the housing perimiter. If you see rings cut in the pin that don't have clips in them, they probably fell off. If used in a marine environment, the pin probably is corroded and locked to the housing. Use usual methods, i.e. heat and lube and.....a hammer wrench.