Question about GE Spacemaker WSLP1100D Top Load Washer

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Water intake and wash cycle

The water intake comes in as a very slow drip..called repair man... he cleaned it...still does not work... he is ordering a new water valve... he said I could still do a would take a very long time to fill... so.. I did that... twice...after about 2 to 3 hrs. of filling... when it reached capacity and washer did not kick beeped and flashed FF Can u help please.

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Re: water intake and wash cycle

Changing the water valve will solve this problem.

Posted on Dec 17, 2011

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Re: water intake and wash cycle

Is the selector knob set to the correct wash/rinse water temperature setting? I.e, cold/cold, hot/cold, warm/cold, etc.?
if the valve was faulty it wouldnt take any water in at all. Sounds like a clogged inlet hose or valve.
if it fills and doesnt start, the lid switch is bad.

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

Re: water intake and wash cycle

Change the water intake valve, that is the only answer i think

Posted on Oct 10, 2007

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Thank you so much! We had a Kenmore 110.4564191 that was overflowing water, we...

This explains how to diagnose a problem where the wash tub fills when the washer is not in use.

The problem is commonly caused by either a pressure switch malfunction, or a bad water inlet valve (also known as a mixing valve). The way you can tell is to leave the water turned on and unplug the washer. If the water continues to flow, the problem is the water inlet valve. If the water stops, the pressure switch is the problem.

The most common source of this problem is a water inlet valve that is leaking by. The following link explains step-by-step how to replace a defective valve:

If the Pressure switch is determined to be the problem, you need to either remove the back panel of the operator console, or lift the entire console if it does not have a removable back, to access the switch. Depending on how the console is designed, will depend on which of the following methods is required to lift the console:

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push straight back while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

c. Some consoles have a series of screws located in the back. Simply loosen the screws to release the console.
Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer to its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. They can break easily.

The pressure switch is located directly behind the load level selector knob. The switch can easily be replaced by following these steps:

1. Make sure the washer is unplugged. Dangerous voltage is still present even with the washer turned off.

2. Remove the selector knob that is attached to the pressure switch on the front panel.

3. Remove the electrical connector(s) from the pressure switch and the air hose.

4. Loosen any mounting screws holding the switch in place and remove.

5. Install replacement switch in the reverse order of the steps provided.

IMPORTANT: Make sure you reconnect the air hose. The air hose is used by the pressure switch to detect the pressure differential in the wash tub as the washer fills. Wihtout it and the washer will not shut off as it fills and it will overflow.

Replacement parts can be purchased on line at any of the following websites:

All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list also include helpful exploded view diagrams of your washer to help you with locating and properly identifying the parts you need.

This applies to Whirlpool manufactured top loaders. Kenmore, Roper, Estate, Kelvinator, Frigidaire and later model Maytag models are some of the washers that Whirlppol manufactures. If in doubt, always include your model number when posting questions, so that I can determine how your appliance is configured. Both of these repairs are very simple, and expensive. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is found to be helpful.

on Apr 01, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

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I'm just guessing here, but if those spots you mentioned are heater supports and the heaters come on during cycle # 6, then the heat may be deforming the seals so that they leak. It would appear that the fix is to replace those seals, but I would try to build up the outer area with silicon glue (clean the area with rubbing alcohol or acetone first) to see if it would hold the water first. It could be a fairly extensive process to replace the seals (if you can still buy them!). Hope this helps some!

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f2 means the unit is draining to need to clean your pump filter...if you need help with that post to onthejob

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it sounds like you have a leaking water valve, you will have to replace the mixing valve, For now turn the water off at the wall suppling water to the machine. When you want to use the washer turn on water, when its done with the cycle turn the water off.

Note: unplugging the machine will not stop the water from running

May 13, 2008 | Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer

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