Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hotpoint WF860
when the machine was flashing door this was telling you that either the door was not shut properly, try it again, or the interlock switch was faulty, chances are its probably shorted out and blown the circuit board, take care and remove the board to check for signs of blowing, if no signs then i would replace the interlock and start from there, ps i am a retired engineer and have had the same machine myself
Posted on Oct 02, 2007
SOURCE: microwave dead
First, there is an outlet. Plug in something else. Inside the key panel, there are fuses and a thermo sensor. Either may be bad. The thermosensor is about the diameter of a dime, black and 3/8 inch thick...attached to the wall of the chamber. All should have continuity.
Posted on Dec 20, 2007
SOURCE: No power from Whirlpool.
The problem was a defective switch. There are 3 switches on mine. 1 on the top door latch, and 2 on the bottom. one of the switches on the bottom connected the power and neutral together, unless it was activated at the same time as the other 2, causing the breaker to trip or the internal fuse to blow. When unhooking the wire going from this switch to the other switch, everything works great now. Though I still need to replace the switch.
And for Basic 1. Yes my microwave did have a fuse in it it's ceramic, I got a pack of them at Radio Shack 4 for 3$ 250V 20 Amp. There should be a wiring diagram inside the microwave, mine was inside a black bag, so it may be hard to see.
Mine was up top next to the fuse behind the Plastic Grill and then a small metal grill. Some are behind the control panel, to fix this remove the screw at the top and then slide the control panel up and it should unhinge.
Posted on Apr 01, 2008
SOURCE: Dead Arcam CD73
These are a cool old machine. They use the cdm1 laser mechanism that was revered in its day for high performance. If you have voltage available after the rectifier stages, check the 3 pin voltage regulators. Marked as 78xx for positive regulator, and 79xx for negative. the xx gives you the voltage they are supposed to be putting out. They commonly fail, also check the same for dry solder joint. resolder them anyway if you are unsure. If all the regulators check out, then also check low value flame proof resistors in the power supply rails. Get back to me here again and let me know how you got on. Good Luck
Posted on Aug 09, 2008
Well I found the problem - fuse had blown.
There is a circuit diagram on the back of the washer that allowed me to locate the fuse. Take off the rear top plastic panel (behind the folding lid) by removing the two screws on the back. Inside close to the power cord you will find a fuse holder and an in-line ceramic fuse, 125V 12A. I checked mine for continuity and it had blown (as to why, I don't know yet - maybe the motor drew too much current with a large wash load?) - anyways, I replaced the fuse and everything works now!
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
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