Question about Washing Machines
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:
Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.
Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.
Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
SOURCE: Washing machine will not start
It is your central control unit...........try ing hitting the top with hand toward the back of machine sometimes there is a short in the CCU and a little shake will correct
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
there maybe a coin or something stuck between the two drums, when the machine spins fast it lifts the item up, unplug the appliance and remove the botton drum hose to see if you can get it out.
Posted on Apr 07, 2010
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers:
And the following for how to release the console, cabinet and pump, motor, transmission and tub.
DON'T BE ALARMED, THE ABOVE ARE REFERENCES AT THIS POINT. YOU CAN FIX IT. (THESE ARE RELATIVELY EASY TO FIX IF YOU TAKE YOUR TIME.)
The first thing to check is how well the tub is attached to the spin tube. Over time, the nut that holds the tub on may have worked loose. The description for how to pull the tub should help.
You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.
If the tub is firmly attached to the drive tube, the next thing to check is the drive tube itself to make sure that it's not broken. Pull it (following the illustrated instructions and the Service Manual) and check it. Also check the pads / springs for the brake.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART.
If the tub is fine and the drive tube is fine, the problem could be in the gearcase itself. (It's a messy but not difficult job)
There are two plastic cams within the gearcase that lift the agitator shaft out of the way when the washer goes into spin mode. If the cams are worn (they don't have to be broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/16") out of the way.
Also see the following for how the transmission works and the whirlpool parts list for the commercial washers (although the consumer models use the same gearcase.)
Basically whats happening is this.
When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.
It's a bit messy to fix (15 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.
The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, check the clutch bands and springs before going further. If they are worn, sears and Whirlpool have replacement spring / band kits. If they are fine, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft.
Remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 24, 2014 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer
Jun 26, 2014 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Mar 21, 2014 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
It is so common that the washing machine can make
terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is
important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the
identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is
vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be
inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it
is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually
turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the
drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which
include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be
in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the
mounting is also very important. Finally
in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve
Check this link :
For replacement of bearings check for tips on this visual link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1401/how-to-replace-the-bearings-on-a-washing-mach.html
Jan 19, 2013 | Frigidaire Washing Machines
Feb 27, 2011 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Jan 18, 2011 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer
Mar 12, 2010 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Jun 01, 2009 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer
Feb 25, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
66 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!