Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range
I have a GE XL14 stove/oven. During a recent cooking session, a pressure cooker overflowed (hot and greasy) onto and into the burner assembly. It clogged somewhere. I've tried soaking it in degreaser and water for an hour and then washed and dried it. I've tried pricking the tiny holes which allow the gas through to ignite. I cannot seem to get it free enough to ignite. Can you help?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your problem is not the igniter itself, but the burner switch that controls the igniter. All the igniters get their power from one spark module that is mounted somewhere in back of the oven. That's why you are able to get all the igniters to spark with only one burner control turned on. This is normal. That is also why you are able to light the burner in question buy turning on another burner. The spark is being provided by a switch that is working. To answer your question: the igniter is removable, but I don't think it's necessary. Cleaning them generally doesn't make them work better. I would check the wiring from the spark module to the burner switch and/or replace the switch. I hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 18, 2007
There is nothing fancy about how the gas controls work on this unit. Do all burners give you the same problem? If so, it could be a kinked service hose or a service valve that has been partly shut. If it is limited to a single burner or two, the valve may be gummed up and should be replaced.
Posted on Dec 13, 2007
The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.
FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.
Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
Sorry for apparently not giving feedback earlier, but the gas valve on the one burner has been replaced, and that solved the problem. What apparently caused this is someone forcing the knob in the reverse direction that broke something in the shaft. It sort of worked for a little while, then would not work at all... no gas coming out = no ignition. I replaced the gas valve with the suggestions given above and all is well.
I you are having problem with your unit, check to see if gas is coming out at all from the burners...you will be able to smell it easily. Then find the pinhole on the side of the burner that is used to ignite the burner when the spark is sparking. clean this pinhole out with a toothpick or small wire...really make it clean as small obstructions can prevent it from working. Then clean off the small electrode with fine sand paper and use the toothpick to remove any food particles on the electrode and the insulator around it.
Now looking again at your comment - no ignitor-... if this means no spark, clean the electrodes ...if itstill doesnt work , one of the gurus can specify the component that generates the spark(s) and troubleshooting procedures for that.
To the person who had no gas, that sounds like a main gas valve problem (regulator?)... resend that question to the gurus as you seem to have something blocking the regular flow of gas for the whole unit.
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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