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Test for these first:
First of all, see if you have good voltage supply on the socket on which it is powered too.
(1) All venting is clear of lint, even disconnected from back of dryer.
(2) Breaker in house is not tripped. Cycle the breakers off and back on to make sure.
(3) Test continuity on all thermostats and thermal fuses, all have to measure 0 ohms when wires are disonnected and dryer unplugged. We tested the HiLimit Thermostat, Safety Thermostat, and Thermal fuse mounted to the heating element housing, all should have continuity. Also measure the two thermostats located near the exhaust duct in the rear of the dryer, get 0 ohms as well.
(4) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test continuity from each terminal to the metal cage to make sure none of the elements were grounded. Good if theres no continuity there.
(5) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test resistance between double coil and inner/outer coil. Each should measure around 19 ohms.
(6) Test the dryer temperature switch by removing wire from terminal 15, then took a reading between terminal 15 and terminal 16, should get 0 ohms there.
(7)Test the dryer timer by first setting the timer to 60 minutes. then remove the wire from terminal A. We then took a reading between terminal A and terminal B, and should get 0 ohms. then keet the leads on those two terminals and rotate the timer and had continuity throughout the 70 minute cycle.
disconnect all wires (including RCAs)
reconnect positive, ground, and remote.
Turn amplifier (car) on.
If it goes into protect mode again - there is an internal fault that requires professional repair.
If the amplifier idles as normal - turn off the car. Plug in RCAs & re-try
Failure? - replace RCAs as they may be pinched or faulty.
Lastly if all connections are made and amplifier idles without going into protection - you need to concentrate on your load (subwoofers).
Be sure they are wired properly into a resistance that amplifier is rated.
The lowest impedence that amplifier is rated is 2ohm.
That is possible with (2) 4 ohm subwoofers wired in parallel....
(4) 8 ohm subwoofers wires in parallel...
(1) Quad 1 ohm subwoofer...
or (1) Dual 4 ohm voicecoil subwoofer.
Any other combination will result in an impedence too low for your amplifier.
Using an OhmMeter (Digital multimeter set to Ohms 20) test each voicecoil against its advertised resistance. It should be CLOSE +/- .5 Ohms.
Any other reading means the voicecoil is blown.
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Well this is interesting, Let me start by saying if you have a 2 ohm load and your system is set for 4 ohms you are going to overdrive your load and burn up your amplifier, maybe not right away, but sooner or later it will fail due to electrical and thermal stress bought on by power dissipation issues.
Yes you can get 2000 watts out of your amps, but the correct way is to bridge your amplifiers if you can, and terminate them into the proper load.
First of all how many ohm's are each subwoofer rated at . Are the subwoofers dual voice coil or single voice coil. Once I know that I can help you. I think the JL amp is not recommended below a 2ohm load.
I don't know how you checked the fuses but if you didn't use an ohm meter, you need to confirm that you have B+ and remote at the amplifier.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage is sufficient at the remote and B+ terminals, the switching power supply has probably failed in the amplifier.