An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Uploaded 5 video answers.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: tension spring behind toggle lever
Some have an adjustment screw, others you need to replace the spring, have a close look and see if you can find an adjustment screw, at a push you could use elastic and use it to make it tighter but not recomended use as a short term fix while waiting for parts.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Not sure what type mower is but as long as the tensioner is moving to tighten the belt then you will need to replace the belt.Most tensioners have a spring attached to them make sure you did not lose a spring or the tensioner is not stuck and going to full depth before you replace the belt.
when you actuate the "engage blade" lever, two things may occur,
First, a mechanical action, a spring moves to put tension onto the belt.
Second; at the end of its run, actuate a switch (PTF switch) to engage the clutch that moves the pulleys that consequentially move the blades.
if the tensioner is not moving , check if spring has come lose, undone or broken, (more likely in your case) or check the PTF switch.
any other assistance, contact me, good luck.
Open machine face cover you would be able to see what happen to your presser bar. If you can raise the lever but the presser bar not response Or if you can push up the presser bar easily with your hand, the presser bar tension screw is loose. Upper part of the bar would have the tension/presser spring, press up the presser bar till you can feel enough tension to press the material then tighten the tension screw which is located behind the bar.(Most machine you can access the screw thru a small entry at the back of machine, right behind the bar itself. You may have to repeat this until the bar have enough presser to press the material. Hope this is helpful.
Wish I could be there to check it. Yes, the shift return torsion spring could be broken. No, the the shift tension spring is not the same as the torsion spring. The tension spring is not the problem. It just indexes the shift drum in proper position for each gear. The stopper screw could have a broken end. The torsion spring may not be hooked in position. It could also be that the shift lever needs to be removed and the bore cleaned free of mud and well as the shift shaft. Be sure the pedal shift lever is not bound up against anything.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION of timing belt:
Fig. 1: View of the timing belt cover
Fig. 2: Loosen then timing belt tensioner using a ratchet and short socket
Fig. 3: Matchmark the direction of rotation of the timing belt
Fig. 4: Once loose, pull the belt off the camshaft pulley
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Turn the crankshaft to align the timing belt matchmarks and set cylinder No. 1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
Remove all necessary components to gain access to the cylinder head and timing belt covers.
Remove the cylinder head and timing belt covers.
There are 2 belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shafts and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Lock the timing belt adjuster in position by installing one of the lower timing belt cover bolts to the adjuster arm.
Loosen the timing belt and balancer shafts tensioner adjuster nut, but do not loosen the nut more than 1 turn. Push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to relieve the tension. Hold the tensioner and tighten the adjusting nut to hold the tensioner in place.
Carefully remove the balancer belt. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant. Slide the belt off the pulleys.
Remove the balancer belt drive sprocket from the crankshaft.
Loosen the lockbolt installed to the timing belt adjuster and loosen the adjusting nut. Push the timing belt adjuster to remove the tension on the timing belt, then tighten the adjuster nut.
Remove the timing belt. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant. Slide the belt off the pulleys.
If defective, remove the belt tensioners by performing the following:
Remove the springs from the balancer belt and the timing belt tensioners.
Remove the adjusting nut.
Remove the bolt from the balancer belt adjuster lever, then remove the lever and the tensioner pulley.
Remove the lockbolt from the timing belt tensioner lever, then remove the tensioner pulley and lever from the engine.
This is an excellent time to check or replace the water pump. Even if the timing belt is only being replaced as part of a good maintenance schedule, consider replacing the pump at the same time.
If the water pump is to be replaced, install a new O-ring and make certain it is properly seated. Install the water pump and retaining bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
If the tensioners were removed, perform the following to install them:
Install the timing belt tensioner lever and tensioner pulley.
NOTE: The tensioner lever must be properly positioned on its pivot pin located on the oil pump. Be sure that the timing belt lever and tensioner moves freely and does not bind.
Install the lockbolt to the timing belt tensioner, do not tighten the lockbolt at this time.
Install the balancer belt pulley and adjuster lever.
Install the adjusting nut and the bolt to the balancer belt adjuster lever. Do not tighten the adjuster nut or bolt at this time.
NOTE: Be sure that the balancer lever and tensioner moves freely and does not bind.
Install the springs to the tensioners.
Move the timing belt tensioner its full deflection and tighten the lockbolt.
Move the balancer its full deflection and tighten the adjusting nut.
The crankshaft timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the white mark on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head.
Install the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioners.
Loosen the bolt used to lock the timing belt tensioner. Loosen, then tighten the timing belt adjusting nut.
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam pulley has moved 3 teeth; this creates tension on the timing belt. Loosen, then tighten the adjusting nut and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Tighten the bolt used to lock the timing belt tensioner.
Realign the timing belt marks, then install the balancer belt drive sprocket on the crankshaft.
Align the front balancer pulley; the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark, which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one at 10 o'clock to the crank pulley when viewed from the pulley end.
Align the rear timing balancer pulley (2 o'clock from the crank pulley) using a 6 x 100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.9 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the bolt or rod into the hole. Align the 2.9 in. (74mm) mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
Install the balancer belt. Once the belts are in place, be sure that all the engine alignment marks are still correct. If not, remove the belts, realign the engine and reinstall the belts. Once the belts are properly installed, slowly loosen the adjusting nut, allowing the tensioner to move against the belt. Remove the pin from the maintenance hole and reinstall the bolt and washer.
Turn the crankshaft 1 full turn, then tighten the adjuster nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Remove the bolt used to lock the timing belt tensioner.
Install the lower cover, ensuring the rubber seals are in place. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut, DO NOT loosen the adjusting nut.
Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm).
Install the upper timing belt cover and all applicable components. When installing the side engine mount, tighten the bolt and nut attaching the mount to the engine to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) and the through-bolt and nut to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable.
For water pump removal and installation contact me:
the case the bobbin goes into has a little spring on its side .. the spring has one or two screws. one screw adjusts tension on the spring .. the bobbin thread goes under that spring when it is properly threaded .. if the screw is loose or missing then replace the screw or tighten it a little so that thread pulled thru the bobbin case spring has a bit of drag .. if its too loose then you can tighten the screw a bit more ... if you tighten it too much then it will pull the top thread thru to the bottom .. if your adjustment screw or spring is missing then you can replace the bobbin holder .. the new one should have the spring in place and be properly tightened .. . often the adjustment screw is just loose or the thread is not positioned correctly in the bobbin case slot. .
If this is a automatic tensioner,then spray penatrating oil in behind the tensioner pivot point.Like P B blaster.You may have to tap on the tensioner with a hammer,lightly.and use a tool to force the tensioner to move.If you can move the tensioner a little bit one way,then another,it will eventually free up.If this is a manual tensioner(one that isn`t spring loaded)Then you don`t have all the bolts loose.
take a flat head screwdriver and puch the spring loaded pin near the plate in and pull the lever off... use the screwdriver to pry the finish plate off, then tighten the 2 bolts you just exposed... reverse it to get lever back on...