Question about Heating & Cooling
The coils, Freon lines, and condenser are frozen on my system. All electric, no heat pump.
The most common cause of coils, lines or components freezing over are low refrigerant charge, lack of airflow across coil or a blockage of the condensate drain. If the outdoor coil is frozen over then the defrost mechanism may not be working properly.
Posted on Nov 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: reversing valve
The first thing you need to do is fix the hole in the coil. It will only get worse no matter what you do. The reversing valve is controlled by the thermostat, then to the defrost board, as it has a timer, sensor and all that jazz. As to your question, that is a tricky one. The way I found worked best for heat pumps is to turn it to cool. If its so cold outside that it will not turn on because of an outside thermostat, cover the coil and yourself with a cardboard box or a large tarp. Give yourself some room of course, get a set of gauges that has temp. ring for R-22.Take suction temp. from the line about 1 foot from the compressor, look at the low side of the gauge and find the temperature, not the pressure for R-22. You should have a 20 degree differential. If more than 20, add freon, less remove. This sounds a little odd, but its easy to overcharge heat pumps on the heat mode. The condenser has a sensor that switches on the electric heat if the heat pump is not working. Ice on the condenser is normal on heat mode, that's why there is a defrost board.
Posted on Jan 12, 2008
You stated capasitor was checked . if cap. is ok sometimes start terminal wire will burn into at compressor or you may have a loose connection causing a voltage drop (more than 10%).If both check ok try a hard start kit. Who knows it might start. good luck
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
SOURCE: Electric Heater Coils Always On
We use the STW0925H! in 60 rooms on this property and have encountered similar problems that were caused by weldedd contacts on one of two relays that controls the electric strip heat. They can be replaced if needed.
PTHP's and PTACs employ thermal fuses as well as a bimetal limit stat on the heating element to limit risk if fan motor were to fail and the heating element were to remain energized. It would be wise to check that both are fuctioning properly while you are servicing the unit.
Posted on Mar 07, 2008
1.check filter if really dirty change
2. check Refrigerant if low get charged by a tech
3. check the evaporator coil if dirty clean
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
Chances are you have a TXV already installed. Thats why simply adding refridgerant is not effecting the pressures.
All you are doing by adding refridgerant is overcharging the unit, and possibly forcing the compressor to try to pump liquid instead of vapor. Not god for the compressor.
If the vibration noise is your only problem, I would try emilinating the vibration.
Find where the lineset is touching other parts of the house and install vibration dampening opads there. If the airahndler is mounted to the structure of the house, install vibration reduxction pads there too. If it is suspended from the floor joists you may have to change that mounitng method.
You can suspend the drain overflow pan and then set the unit in that on dampening pads, or set it on blocks from the floor/crawlspace.
Check your data sticker to find out how many pounds of refridgerant the unit takes.
By now, you are probably way overcharged.
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
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