Question about Philips HTS3410D/37 700W DVD Home Theater System System

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Philips hts3410d the standby/on button is flashing rapidly there is a disc in the player, but it wont turn on to eject it. this just started out of nowhere, no idea what caused it and nothing about it in the manual..help please

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  • Anonymous Nov 07, 2007

    HTS3410D power on/standby button flashes on and off. .....and the system does nothing else. I checked the power supply fuse and it's ok. There is no internal visible evidence of a problem.

  • bumae Nov 11, 2007

    dvd stuck wont eject

  • BevK Nov 28, 2007

    the standby button is flashing off and on. None of the buttons on the unit or on the remote work. I tried unplugging the device and that did not work. I called Philips support and was advised that I would need to send it in to be serviced. They advised they would send me a replacement unit for $149.00 (I am probably better off getting a different brand or better unit).

  • jerrywolf Dec 21, 2007

    Noticed I'm not the only one with this problem. Flashing standby button, DVD stuck in the drive and no way to turn unit on or get disc out. If the only help Philips offers is a replacement for $150 or shipping at my expense I'll be taking my business elsewhere.

  • day7977 Nov 22, 2008

    Same thing... Power supply light flashing and machine makes, "chirping" noise. Took apart the whole thing and nothing looked out of place. Fuse is ok. All Connections look sound. Not sure if it is power cord or the power panel inside, but it is no good.

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I solved this problem on my HTS3410D.

Inside there are two circuit boards, the power supply board and the audio/video board.

  • First, unplug your unit and let it sit for a few hours.
  • Now open the unit up, and unplug all of the connectors going to or from the power supply board. You can easily tell which board is the power supply board because it's the one the power cord plugs into.
  • Unscrew the four mounting screws that hold the board to the case.
  • Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, squeeze the two white plastic clips that hold the board to the case (one at a time), while gently lifting the board away from the case.
  • Now that you have the board out, feel the tops of all the capacitors (they look like this). Healthy capacitors should have a totally flat top. (There is probably one that is covered in some sort of heat shrink, so you can't feel the top.)
  • One capacitor most likely has a slightly bulging top. That is the culprit.
  • Using a soldering iron, carefully remove the busted capacitor, making sure to note which side the stripe is on.
  • Buy a replacement capacitor at Radio Shack or www.digikey.com that has the same capacitance (e.g. - 1000uF) an equal or greater voltage, and an equal or greater maximum temperature.
  • Insert and re-solder the replacement capacitor in the same orientation as the one you took out, then trim the excess leads.
  • Reassemble your system, and you're done.
The capacitor that died on mine was 1,000uF, 16V, 105°C. It was located fairly close to where the power cord comes in to the board. I replaced it with a 1,000uF 50V capacitor, and the system powered right up like a champ. The entire process took me about an hour.

I hope this helps some other people have similar results.

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

  • Timothy Ellis
    Timothy Ellis Mar 20, 2008

    I should add that I have quite a bit of electronics experience, which means that I had the tools and the parts just lying around for this solution, and I knew how to replace a capacitor. For someone with no experience and no tools, I'm guessing that the total cost will be around $25 (~$20 for a soldering iron, and <$2 for a capacitor), and it will probably take you a few hours at least. Look online for tutorials on soldering through-hole parts and you should be fine.

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My symptom was an erratic oscillatory sound from inside the main unit with no display or functions.

It too had a 16V 1000uF capacitor fail with "dome top syndrome". The location was nearer the middle of the power supply pcb next to an inductor.

I used the inspection method - look around to see if something doesn't look normal - to find this.

FWIW there are several supply voltages coming from the power supply. +5, +12, +27, -27, and two AC lines (green wires probably for a 60 Hz clock or some other item needing a line referenced clock).

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

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Solution worked for the power issue, however I still get a 'no disc' message even when there is one in the player...time to look for a new post.

Thanks for the info SeattleTimE!

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

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I have had the unit about 3 month. It started flashing a red ring on the power button. Will not turn on. No Disc in unit. Took cover off to check to see if fuse was blown, but ok. No reset button on outside & didn't find one inside. Need help, Thanks.

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

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