Question about RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

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I reinstalled my electric water heater after replacing a floor. That was four hours ago. Still no hot water and I hear water running like a washer is filling. What's wrong?

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If you failed to turn off the breaker before you emptied the tank then the element had no water to cool it. It would have blown a hole in it. If it is ok by some miracle then try turning off the breaker and turning it on again. As for the sound it would only do that if there was a large vapour lock.

Posted on Nov 23, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

miket756
  • 2702 Answers

SOURCE: Smelly water from electric hot water heater 40 gal.

turn the power off and flush it out by letting the tap run for an hour or so
i think it could have lime scale in it or the element is about to blow if its the type that you can get the top off look inside it you may see the fult even kettle cleaner may be needed to clean it out, but dont go drinking that water???

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: Hot water heater is not working correctly on electric

Check that the by-pass valve(s) on or near back of water heater are in the proper position. If your stumped on how they should be for normal operation, remember this. Cold water has to flow into bottom of tank, so that valve needs to be open straight into that fitting. Then the hot comes out the top, so that valve has to be open as well. Any valves in between those lines need to be closed, otherwise it will mix cold and hot . If still not sure, get back to me, with location of any valves there, and I'll guide you through it.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

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1 Answer

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Do not turn power ON before tank is full of water or element will burn out
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

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You have water leak that you can hear running water.
Could be broken pipe under house.
Could be water running out of tank at TP valve.

Turn off all water taps and put ear against each pipe at tank.
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Copy following links for troubleshoot walk-thru.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Ear-against-pipe-200.jpg
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1 Answer

What sort of lpm rate would suit a normal home with fairly good water pressure


This is just what I would say for an average family of four during hours of peak usage. You should be okay with a flow rate of twenty to twenty four lpm,assuming you have rapid enough recovery. This is based on one shower at a time and not running dishwasher or clothes washer at the same time.If you are using hot water from multiple fixtures then increase accordingly.Hope this helps. Thanks

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sounds like an element is burned out. if your water heater lost its water, probably from siphoning, and the power was on, then it most likely burned out the element.

you will need to replace. replace both the upper and lower elements at the same time, don't just replace the one that's burned out.

turn off the power to the water heater, be sure to check with a volt meter to make sure its off. drain the water heater.

remove the wires from the elements, not the thermostat, and remove the element. on the newer water heaters they screw in. take that with you to the store so you can match it. get 2 of them.

be sure to use the new rubber washers that come with the elements and make sure the threads on the heater are clean. be careful not to drop or bang the elements against the heater when installing, they can be fragile.

do not over tighten! snug is good enough. when you get both elements installed, start filling the heater with water. if you have any leaks, tighten the elements a little more. now hook up the wires you removed from the elements. doesn't matter what position or screw they hook to.

start bleeding the air from the water heater, turn on the hot water on a faucet in the house, when it quits spurting air and runs water smoothly turn it off, and turn the power back on to the heater. use your amp meter to make sure. initially there will only be power at the top element 220v to 240v

make sure the thermostats are set evenly, (125* setting) if the settings are mismatched (one at 125 and one at 135) the heater will not function properly.

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1 Answer

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Something you can do, following your fathers logic,   is to attach a hose to the drain of the tank and run water from the bottom of the tank into a drain untill all the sediment is removed (Water runs clean). This is normally done once a year as preventive maintenance  on all tank type water heaters. The logic sounds good to me. 

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1 Answer

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Please get an expert in - this is either the breaker is faulty or you have an electric fault int he boiler. You can try and replace the breaker - but match the current rating. But this could be dangerous if you keep trying to reset.

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1 Answer

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It sounds like you might have scale buildup on the elements. If its a dual element unit it will ground it self out and it sounds like its boiling. constance usage of electricity, but no water usage. Drain it, and pull the element and replace the element.

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Most electric water heaters have 2 heaters - an upper and a lower, each with it's own thermostat. These are readily accessible by removing the screw covers on the side of the tank. Careful - the thermostats have 240VAC on the terminal screws (unless you have a small 120VAC heater) if the circuit breaker or fuses feeding the heater are still on - turn them off before proceeding. After removing the two screw covers and pulling back the insulation you will see temperature (screw) adjustments for the upper and lower thermostats, with a temperature indicating pointer attached to each screw. Set both thermostats to 125 degrees or so. Push the insulation back in place, replace the covers and turn the circuit breaker back on that feeds the water heater. You should have warm water within 15 minutes and hot water within a hour or so.

If the water still does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.

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