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Terry H Posted on Nov 23, 2013

Need to replace the freehub on my Giant anthem x1 29er

... what type do i need to order

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Anonymous

  • 8546 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 29, 2011

SOURCE: i get back pain with

You're asking us for a subjective answer that requires alignment with personal preference on your part to work. Not only height but hand position and width come into play.

The general geometry of a mountain bike was carefully considered to keep your center of gravity between the axles until you encounter steep up or downhill trails. Then you have to move around a little to stay low and over the bottom bracket.

Getting Riser Bars or simply flipping the stem over or getting one with a different rise and reach might give you the added height you need. If you LIKE the handlebars, the stem is the best option as most new ones come with front loaders (detachable front caps) that allow replacement without stripping components off one side of the handlebar. In minutes a Bicycle Shop could swap any number of them onto your bike for you to try.

I would recommend you get used to the position that yields a careful compromise between aerodynamics nd uprightness when needed.

I always ask people who have issues with an efficient riding position "who ties your shoes for you?", because THAT is a far more extreme bent over position than one would find on anything short of a time trial bike.

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Can the handlebar be raised on a 2015 giant anthem 1

The seat should typically be at a point such that your knee has a slight bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke. The handlebars go wherever they are most comfortable for you. Reach (horizontal distance) is adjusted with a different stem. Height on your bike can only be increased by using a stem raiser. The following Google search will show you what is available, and the video results will show the procedure to install it.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

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Giant Advanced Anthem X, Serial # GK4D453, What year

Go to BikePedia, enter make and model, then browse through until you see your bike's color scheme, check against components to confirm.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

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Creaking noise

Hi there,

I know, this can be extremely frustrating...

First and easiest, check that your rear wheel is tightened completely, this can also sound like suspension noises.

Next, a bit more effort, unscrew your pedals, clean out the gunk, put some grease on the thread and replace, tighten securely.

You might also have to check your wheel bearings, mine is in the shop at the moment because of this, bearing issues...

I would also check the BB (bottom bearing) where your crank goes through, before the last step. This can also cause a lot of noise.

Lastly, if it is your suspension, you will have to take it apart, every link and check every bearing, they so have a limited life, clean out all dust and grit that gathered inside, replace and grease all bearings and links, but don't over tighten the links.

Here is a full service manual for you:

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/_upload_it/bikes/models/manual/Anthem%20Service%20Manual.pdf

For a full suspension service, you will have to look at every single point that hinges on your frame, I count at least five on one side.
22540493-rsx4m12fp5prszbjjw0ik22q-5-0.jpg

Hope this helps.
0helpful
1answer

I get back pain with my giant anthem 3 .. what riser bars would you suggest for single track and cross country riding

You're asking us for a subjective answer that requires alignment with personal preference on your part to work. Not only height but hand position and width come into play.

The general geometry of a mountain bike was carefully considered to keep your center of gravity between the axles until you encounter steep up or downhill trails. Then you have to move around a little to stay low and over the bottom bracket.

Getting Riser Bars or simply flipping the stem over or getting one with a different rise and reach might give you the added height you need. If you LIKE the handlebars, the stem is the best option as most new ones come with front loaders (detachable front caps) that allow replacement without stripping components off one side of the handlebar. In minutes a Bicycle Shop could swap any number of them onto your bike for you to try.

I would recommend you get used to the position that yields a careful compromise between aerodynamics nd uprightness when needed.

I always ask people who have issues with an efficient riding position "who ties your shoes for you?", because THAT is a far more extreme bent over position than one would find on anything short of a time trial bike.
0helpful
1answer

Cant put my mavic back together properly

It sounds like you lost the washer that sits between the bearing in the nose and the freehub bearing. If you lose that washer, when you re-tighten the axle, the two bearings will bind and prevent the freewheel from spinning easily.

Take your freehub off again and see if that washer is there. If it isn't, you'll have to get a new one and replace it. It's easy to lose that thing if you don't know it's there when you take the wheel apart, because it'll just fall out.

When I reassemble those wheels. I thread the drive-side axle through the freehub body, then place the washer over the axle on the inside of the bearing, then thread the axle through the nose.

Also note that if your freehub seemed loose, it probably needs to be replaced. The FTS-L freehub body used on the Ksyrium wheels uses a nylon bushing as the friction interface to the nose, and this bushing wears down over time even with good lubrication.
12helpful
1answer

Noisy Rear Mavic Ksyrium Hub

Sounds like a road wheel with a worn FTS-L freehub body. You'll need to have it replaced.

What happens is that the nylon bushing wears, causing there to be play between the freehub and the nose of the wheel. Once there is enough play, the freehub can actually vibrate against the nose, causing noise and friction - which is why you see the chain slacken. This is commonly called the "squeal of death," meaning it is an indication that the freehub body is "dead."

A new FTS-L freehub body should be about $50-60 and shop shouldn't charge more than about $20 to change it out. Just be sure to tell the shop one very important thing:

"Do not lose the metal washer that sits on the axle between the outer bearing of the freehub body and the outer bearing of the nose of the wheel!"

This is so incredibly important - but time and time again, shop mechanics will lose this washer before they reassemble the wheel, causing a series of nightmares with the wheel.

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