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I too have the same configuration. I reset all the boxes to their factory settings and connected them to one another on a single 4 gang extension lead (not a surge protected one) I could get their passwords to pair up as the middle led would indicate. But I could not get the data to freely flow from an old device to a new one! One step forward...
If your belkin wireless router is flashing orange, it more than likely means it was hit by a power surge or got wet and popped the circuit on the mother board of the router. Took mine apart and found where the circuit had been blackened by power surge hitting it. I was able to salvage one important thing was the antenna that can be adapted to other systems if you know what your doing.
If the blade spins up fairly quickly to about half the speed, then doesn't go any faster, then there is a problem with the internal switch of the motor (that shuts off the start capacitor). But, if the motor humms and doesn't really spin up the blade (it should get going if you can spin the shaft fast enough - don't do this with your fingers!) then it's the start capacitor.
The start capacitor is usually mounted on the side of the motor in a sheet metal case - DISCONNECT ALL POWER TO MOTOR BEFORE SERVICING! remove the motor from the saw and open the long wart like case that hold the start capacitor. Discharge the start capacitor by using a plastic handle screwdriver (touch only the plastic and not the metal part of the screwdriver) and touch the 2 leads of the start capacitor together. Remove the wires from the start capacitor (good idea to mark these so you don't mix them up). Then use a multi-meter or resistance/ohm meter on the 2 leads. If the resistance is zero, then slowly climbs to a higher resistance (reset to zero by touching the 2 leads with the screwdriver) then the capacitor is good. If the resistance is infinity or very large, then it's the internal switch.
If it's the capacitor, then replace it (those are easy), but if it's the internal switch then you have to take the motor apart. If you're mechanically inclined, I'd say take the motor apart and check the switch for corrosion and/or saw dust. Usually the lubricating grease dries out. Clean and re-lube. But if you're not mechanically inclined, buy a new motor.
Unplug the surge protector (and all units plugged into it) and take it apart - you'll see how the outlets are connected to provide a closed circuit when on. Make sure all connections are secure and carefully put the unit back together.
You should be able to use all units plugged into it.
Please let me know if you need further assistance.
Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya.com
Simply use Safety. Unplug. Use Continuity Buzzer, Meter ( With Continuity Tone ). Can Use Meter if You Have & Watch, Check By AC Power Cord Fuse. Use a 500 Ohm to 5000 ohm Resistor on two Insulated clip leads with screwdrivers and Find the Hi-Voltage Capacitor ( Large Metal with Leads and a Diode on it. Short the Condenser from one side to another to BLEED any Voltage left Charged in the Condenser. Newer Microwaves have a Bleeder Resistor 10 MegOhms Built in. But Just do this for Backup/Sure Safety. Will Probally Just find a Blown 15-20 amp fuse ( Electrical Surge ). Any one of the 3 Door switches that DONT open-Close Smoothly Will Blow Fuse. ( Intermittent, Burnt, Skipping, Hanging up ). A Shorted Hi-Voltage Capacitor or Diode Will Blow Fuse. Open in Series Protection device may have opened because of Overload or Surge. These are Metal and loop in-Out AC Line and are Mounted ( Heat Sinked to Metal case ).