Question about GE 30 in.JP950 Electric Cooktop
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I hade a code 153 also. Changed the element(costly-$200) and had to recalibrate the pan sensors(in the manual). All works fine now.
Posted on May 29, 2009
SOURCE: On my GE Cooktop JP939
F160 = Pan detect communication failure
Replace main board and recalibrate inductive sensors.
Here is a link to the error code sheet and wiring.
The FixYa Team
Posted on Aug 13, 2011
SOURCE: Right Front Burner shuts off
The fault code and behavior indicates a failed sensor in the heater element - unfortunately the sensor cannot be replaced independently of the element...
Replacing burner element in JP939 (JP969):
Be aware that attempting this repair could lead to more damage and other costly repairs to your cooktop and working with electrical devices poses a threat of serious injury and even death. Potentially, in doing such a repair, you are taking upon yourself liability if the cooktop somehow injures another person through a fault of your repair. I make no claims that what follows isn't any more than gibberish. Just saying.
Based on internet searches, it is pretty clear that the right front (RF) element is the common failure point. Having now done the replacement and finding no obvious design defect or damage, my guess is that the RF element fails first because it is typically the most used. (Nonetheless, you can easily adapt the instructions below to apply to the replacement of any of the heating elements).
You'll need to order the part; the best price I found with shipping was $146 total. It should arrive with calibration instructions and an aluminum calibration disc.
Tools you will definitely need: medium size Philips screwdriver, 1/4" nut driver or socket, small needlenose pliers. Other possible tools: slot head screwdriver, multi-meter. Preferably have the sheet with the full explanation of TECH MODE functions and not just the calibration procedure. Give yourself about an hour to do the repair. IMO, this repair is of medium difficulty.
FIRST TURN OFF POWER TO THE COOKTOP!! (It should be on a dedicated circuit)
Next, clear out the cabinet underneath the cooktop (not absolutely necessary but better to clean up an empty cabinet after you are done then individually cleaning all the items stored there). Also, when you are clearing out the cabinet, check to see if the unit is secured to the cabinet (most likely metal straps on the left and right side of the unit). These straps need to unsecured, obviously, before attempting to remove the unit. Also confirm that the slack of the armored appliance cable is sufficient for lifting the cooktop out of the hole in the countertop. Typically this should be the case but there may be circumstances when the installer allowed for limited "play" in the cable and you will have to disconnect the electrical connection before removing the cooktop.
Once you are sure there is nothing preventing the removal of the cooktop, carefully lift it up and out of the hole and set it on the counter. You may need to use a slot screwdriver to carefully pry up the front edge of the unit. Take care to protect the countertop finish. Despite there being a rubber strip around the edge of the unit, food and liquid gunk has likely accumulated around the edge and thus the unit may be somewhat stuck in place.
Next remove the 14 black screws (5 front and back, 2 each side) around the upper side edge of the unit nearest the top surface. Carefully lift the surface glass straight up about 8 inches. At the front right side, under the glass, is a connector to the keypad that you have to carefully disconnect. The glass surface is now free to be set aside.
Not surprisingly, longtime exposure to heat has made some of the cooktop components brittle so work to minimize stress on the various components. It doesn't matter if you damage the failed RF element in removing it but you do not want to damage any of the other perfectly working elements given their cost.
Use the needlenose pliers to disconnect the three terminals (one toward the rear right (RR) element and two toward the left front (LF). One of the LF facing connectors has a plastic insulator that will likely crack but should not be a problem ultimately.
Next lift the RF element and set it on the LF element. Do the same with the RR element and set it on the left rear (LR). This will expose a metal bar with stand-offs fitted with springs. Remove the four springs and set aside. Use your nut driver/socket to remove the two screws (each) on the front and back sides of the unit that holds the metal bar in place. Once the screws are removed, slide the bar upward and out of the unit; this will require some force due to the snugness of the bar against the sides of the cooktop.
Gently lift the insulating material out so that you can remove the cable from the RF unit that leads to the Logic Board found on the right side of the unit (under the where the keypad rests). Trace the cable to the Logic Board and disconnect the cable from the board. It is probably easiest to remove the bulky magnetic loop around the cable near the connector (not sure why, but only the RF cable has one) at this point before threading the cable out under the sticky insulation strip where the cables travel from he Logic Board area to the element area.
Flip the removed bad element over. You will find two metal "wings" that sit on top of the springs. They are screwed into numbered holes on the outer circumference of the element. Note the numbers and unscrew.
Now we are to the point of reversing the steps. First attach the wings onto the replacement element at the correct number positions.
Feed the wire of the replacement RF element under the insulation, through the gap between compartments. Plug the cable into the Logic Board and reattach the magnetic loop.
Slide the standoff bar back into place compressing the insulation as before and replace the four screws, front and back. Return the four springs onto the posts. Move the RR element back into position on the springs and put the new RF element on its springs. Connect the appropriate connectors onto the three terminals on the RF element.
Retrieve the surface glass assembly and reconnect the keypad and then carefully reseat the surface on top of the unit. Install AT LEAST the four outermost screws on the front and back of the unit before proceeding to the next step.
IMO, this is the time to test and calibrate the cooktop assuming you don't need to reinstall the cooktop to reconnect the electrical connection. Chances are you are good to go to replace all 14 screws and reinstall into to the countertop before power up and calibration but since some of the trouble shooting advice requires reopening the unit, if you can test now then do so.
Reapply power to the unit. After "boot", you should have Control Lock On. If not, you can put it on and then follow the calibration procedure. One minor consideration: place the calibration disc paper down to not scratch the glass surface; one major consideration: IF YOU DON'T WAIT FOR THE TIMER WINDOW TO DISPLAY "DISC" PRIOR TO PLACING THE DISC OVER THE BURNER ELEMENT, THAT ELEMENT WILL "FAIL" EVEN THOUGH IT IS FINE. MORE IMPORTANTLY, THESE ERRONEOUS FAILURES MIGHT LEAD YOU TO WRONGLY CONCLUDE THAT YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE LOGIC BOARD. The calibrations instructions as published by the manufacturer do not make it clear that not following the timing of the steps exactly can generate a failed calibration; the trouble shooting advice focuses on other parts that might be failing. Only worry about these possibilities if you have attempted the calibration, following the instructions to the letter, several times without success.
Likely, everything will calibrate and you can put back the rest of the screws and complete putting the cooktop back in place.
(I do wonder if the LF element will be a source of internet queries in a couple of years...)
Posted on Nov 18, 2013
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