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Hi, Kevin it should be noted that the reasons EFI lights constant or flashing, will or will not start, turns over or not conditions varies from the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work or event IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about Scooters Cold start my SYM HD 200 won start http://www.garage24.se/Catalogs/SYM/Servicemanual/SYM-JOYRIDE%20200/LF12%20LF18%20service%20manual.pdf
Sorry for my bad english!
I try to explane how to reset the EFI lamp:
1. bike in key-on and engine off
2. Near the ECU under the seat there is a 6 way connector (the diagnostic connector), but only 5 way are filled by cables;
3. With an electric cable or other you must connect togheter the 2 pin on the side where there is the hole for exactly 12 sec!
4. After that, the EFI lamp make a series of pulse to indicate the errors occours and then reset the errors memory!
I copied this from the the aprilia forum (just google it). A good first port of call. In fact, any forum relating to any bike you own is always a great place to start searching
I am having the same issue with my sister 2001 corolla. I pinpoint it down to the EFI and/or Engine Main relay. After you drive it for 30 minutes it just shuts off. Try disconnecting the EFI fuse (15 A) for 30 seconds. This will reset the ECU which is going into Limp mode due to relay malfunction. Let me know if it works, i am going to change the relays on my sister's car tomorrow and recheck.
there is no such model on this car.
this car has EFI, in 1992 , the 8 valve has TBI injection and the 16valve G16B had MPI (4 injectors)
both engines the ECU, creates spark at all times.
the input to the ECU is CMP /CKL cam and crank sensors
then the ECU computes ADVANCE and then drives the ignitor
next to the Ign coil. the coil charges and the ECU release this
charge and BAM , mr. Tesla inductive spark. hits the DIZZY.
that is how spark works.
the ECU controls fuel not spark , or better the ECU controls
spark INDEPENDENTLY from fuel;. (with exceptions)
or are you asking about the fuel safety feature built in to all EFI
cars 1988 too now? that is the ECU does monitor Spark
and CMP and CKP and does in fact cut fuel, when the ECU
sees spark missing, yes. It cuts the INJECTORS !
as does , wide open throttle cranking cuts fuel. (injection)
and fuse is (fuel pump) cut after 3 second key on, unless you crank it or runs.
NO YEAR stated (old post)
there is no EFI fuse. sorry,
the ECU has 3 fuses.
FI, Dome, and IG-coil
all 3 run the ECU.
i do know what you ment.
but knowing the correct name makes reading the FSM better.
my guess 2 is you lost the fuse box cover and cant read the names.
guessing year at 91 -95 http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/fusepanel-left-knee1w.jpg
which engine? 2.5 or 4L ,,, always engine first...... ill post for 4liter.
the first test on all EFI, (varies rules) but here it is.
many cars only have power to the pump cranking and running (ONLY)
(crash and burn rules... dig it?)
so use the meter this time and crank.
fuses first check.
btw, alldata.com has that, login and look, like us.
see schem linked here. its real simple and is online. (goggle)
if there is no spark the ECU cuts fuel so forget fuel. if the engine dont crank over fast there can be no spark is cranking good , near 300 rpm? if its just spark go to alldata.com look up you engine, and your EFI system, there are many engine options for must year cars. so first discovery what you have then diagnose that system.
This may just be a problem with the wiring of the car's ECU. It could be a loose wiring. The ECU may be receiving power intermittently. It could also be just an issue with the EFI relay. The ECU signal from the EFI is intermittent causing the flickering and the clicking sound.
If you are trying to reset the check engine light, you remove the EFI
fuse from the engine compartment for about a minute. If there is a
problem, it will soon light up again. This is where the EFI fuse is
located. As you face the front of the 4Runner, you will see the
battery at the
front right. The FUSE BOX is just beyond the battery. The top of the
fuse box has a panel which identifies each fuse. The EFI fuse is the
MIDDLE FUSE, closet to the right fender. If you're talking about the
maintenance reminder light reset button,
its to the left of the guages, labeled "reset"