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Hi, Nikola and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
11. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://symforum.com/index.php?topic=13017.0 GY6 Electrical Troubleshooting Tutorial No Spark Eliminator Sym Citycom 300i Service Manual Scooter Dynasty sells Lance SYM Kymco and Genuine Scooters and Parts SYM Citycom 300i User Manual
Hi, Kevin it should be noted that the reasons EFI lights constant or flashing, will or will not start, turns over or not conditions varies from the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work or event IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch.
2. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. For more information about your issue and valuable free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about Scooters Cold start my SYM HD 200 won start http://www.garage24.se/Catalogs/SYM/Servicemanual/SYM-JOYRIDE%20200/LF12%20LF18%20service%20manual.pdf
I am having the same issue with my sister 2001 corolla. I pinpoint it down to the EFI and/or Engine Main relay. After you drive it for 30 minutes it just shuts off. Try disconnecting the EFI fuse (15 A) for 30 seconds. This will reset the ECU which is going into Limp mode due to relay malfunction. Let me know if it works, i am going to change the relays on my sister's car tomorrow and recheck.
there is no such model on this car.
this car has EFI, in 1992 , the 8 valve has TBI injection and the 16valve G16B had MPI (4 injectors)
both engines the ECU, creates spark at all times.
the input to the ECU is CMP /CKL cam and crank sensors
then the ECU computes ADVANCE and then drives the ignitor
next to the Ign coil. the coil charges and the ECU release this
charge and BAM , mr. Tesla inductive spark. hits the DIZZY.
that is how spark works.
the ECU controls fuel not spark , or better the ECU controls
spark INDEPENDENTLY from fuel;. (with exceptions)
or are you asking about the fuel safety feature built in to all EFI
cars 1988 too now? that is the ECU does monitor Spark
and CMP and CKP and does in fact cut fuel, when the ECU
sees spark missing, yes. It cuts the INJECTORS !
as does , wide open throttle cranking cuts fuel. (injection)
and fuse is (fuel pump) cut after 3 second key on, unless you crank it or runs.
NO YEAR stated (old post)
there is no EFI fuse. sorry,
the ECU has 3 fuses.
FI, Dome, and IG-coil
all 3 run the ECU.
i do know what you ment.
but knowing the correct name makes reading the FSM better.
my guess 2 is you lost the fuse box cover and cant read the names.
guessing year at 91 -95 http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/fusepanel-left-knee1w.jpg
which engine? 2.5 or 4L ,,, always engine first...... ill post for 4liter.
the first test on all EFI, (varies rules) but here it is.
many cars only have power to the pump cranking and running (ONLY)
(crash and burn rules... dig it?)
so use the meter this time and crank.
fuses first check.
btw, alldata.com has that, login and look, like us.
see schem linked here. its real simple and is online. (goggle)
if there is no spark the ECU cuts fuel so forget fuel. if the engine dont crank over fast there can be no spark is cranking good , near 300 rpm? if its just spark go to alldata.com look up you engine, and your EFI system, there are many engine options for must year cars. so first discovery what you have then diagnose that system.