I have two Kicker 10" round subs in a ported box. Occasionally while listening to music they will emit a low pitched howling noise then it will go away for a while and come back. I checked all the wiring and it's all okay...the subs work great when the noise disappears.
by frequency do you mean the output frequency on the head unit? this makes sense because the noise goes away when i shut off the deck...by frequency do you mean the output frequency on the head unit? this makes sense because the noise goes away when i shut off the deck...
- Deck output frequency set at 60Hz - Amp crossover frequency set at approximately 60Hz (Amp is in increments of 25Hz). - Removed ground from amp and buffed away corrosion to bare metal, re-attached ground. - Removed all connections from the amp and re-twisted them, then re-inserted and tightened clamps.
The howling noise still persists, and is completely intermittent, and varies in length, volume, and pitch. Every once in awhile the subs will bump as well. I'm not sure what else to try.A little more information:
- Deck output frequency set at 60Hz
- Amp crossover frequency set at approximately 60Hz (Amp is in increments of 25Hz).
- Removed ground from amp and buffed away corrosion to bare metal, re-attached ground.
- Removed all connections from the amp and re-twisted them, then re-inserted and tightened clamps.
The howling noise still persists, and is completely intermittent, and varies in length, volume, and pitch. Every once in awhile the subs will bump as well. I'm not sure what else to try.
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It's quite simple, positive from amp to positive of speaker, negative to negative. Make sure it's getting sub frequencies only and not full spectrum signal. Next (if everything checks out so far) see if the box dimensions and ports are correct for your sub. The sub and box combo will have lots of factors when considering tuning of the box and port size. You can find all sorts of info on the website for your sub. Qtas, max excursion etc etc etc. They might even list a few total volume and port dimension sizes for the sub you have and your taste in music. It's quite a science to get it right. More than buying a sub and buying/building a box to get great performance. When you get it right though... music to your ears (and chest)
<span>Regardless of your wattage rating on your sub woofer, sub woofers</span> differ in only one way. You get an "Open Air" and a "Closed air" <span>Sub woofer</span>, That being said, you'll have to check on your magnet which one you have, to make the boxes for that particular sub woofer. If it is an "Open air" <span>Sub woofer</span>, you should see a hole with "wire mesh" or "metal grid" in the center, at the back of the magnet. If it is a "Closed air", the magnet will be solid with no hole whatsoever.<br /><br />If it is a "Open air" sub, your boxes should always be sealed with silicone sealant, and no ports are to be cut in your box.<br /><br />Regarding the "Closed air" <span>sub woofers</span>, you should have 2 ports cot in the corners of the boxes just below your sub on the face of the box, and the port sizes should be around 50mm in diameter. Get yourself some 50mm PVC drain piping to use as ports. Firstlycut yourself a 100mm piece and insert flush with the front of the box. Test your sound. then try a 150mm piecs and test again. You should start with a 100mm long piece in the one box and add 50mm increments to "tune" the port up to 250mm, depending on the frequency of bass you require. Carry on testing the sound on each increment until you find the sound you want, Then silicone the port to the box for permanent fixing.<br /><br />On a 10 inch <span>Sub woofer</span> ranging between 80Hz and 100Hz, the ample box size required should be around 26 liters, meaning that you will end up with a box of 11 inches high, x 11 inches wide, x 11 inches deep. <br />Enjoy! <br />
At least 3 cubic feet. Less if you're going to port it. There are online calculators for box and port sizes if you have the specs on your sub and the type of music you like.
Have you visite kicker.com to check out the specs. I am an RE Audio dealer and they have a box building calculator available there. Try www.reaudio.com
Most subs when they "blow" usually seperate from the spider, which gives you a rattling noise. if you have a port in the box, it could be possible that the inside tube has come out. the easiest way to tell is to pull the sub out of the box and see if anything is loose inside there. if there isnt anything then smell the sub where the spider is. if it smells like burnt plastic/metal then yes it is blown.
I hope this has helped you and please dont forget to rate my solution for you.
cheers
For optimal performance there is really only one size for the box .Firstly, you get two different types of subwoofers, an open air, or closed air sub. If it is an open air sub ( hole with mesh in the center of the magnet) no ports are required, and the box should be sealed on the inside with silicone sealant. If it is a closed air sub ( no hole in the magnet) you need a 50mm port about 120mm long. If it is a 12 inch sub the box size will be 13 inches x 13 inches x 13 inches. Hope this helps
did you build the box yourself? because ones from the store have ports in the back of the box. all you do is run a wire from the sub to the ports in the back of the box, which on the outside is connected to the amp.
turn them off and carefully push in on the cone (gently) and listen for scratching or scraping- push strait in and they should flow freely in and out if they DO without feeling or hearing scraping the subs are probably ok, next its either the amp is not powerful enough or the box is not soundly built, by that i mean its too small for the subs- is the box ported or sealed? if ported try plugging off the vent temporarily and see if bass increases if it does i would permanently seal the box
You had the settings set incorrectly and overdrove it. The voice coil leads are burn't open. If you look at the little flexible braids by the terminals I'll bet they are black/brown and maybe even burn't in half. It's toast.
by frequency do you mean the output frequency on the head unit? this makes sense because the noise goes away when i shut off the deck...
A little more information:
- Deck output frequency set at 60Hz
- Amp crossover frequency set at approximately 60Hz (Amp is in increments of 25Hz).
- Removed ground from amp and buffed away corrosion to bare metal, re-attached ground.
- Removed all connections from the amp and re-twisted them, then re-inserted and tightened clamps.
The howling noise still persists, and is completely intermittent, and varies in length, volume, and pitch. Every once in awhile the subs will bump as well. I'm not sure what else to try.
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