Question about Maytag MEDC200XW Dryer

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Maytag dryer wont heat

Its model# medc200xw1. replaced thermo fuse, high limit thermostat, and cut off switch, and the heating element is good, what else could it be?

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  • Maytag Master
  • 8,220 Answers

Probably the timer. Remove the quick connect from the timer where the big red wire is that comes off the heating element. Check that leg with the leg next to it. moving the timer knob . You should get a meter reading. If you cannot get a read then that timer is fried inside. I did a video which shows one exactly like yours.

Posted on Nov 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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canbruce75
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SOURCE: maytag dryer model #mde6657byw wont heat replaced

Check the switch mounted on the motor. Two of the terminals are for the heater element operation. Other causes could be a faulty heat selector switch or timer. These components can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter and checking for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty switch. These are some items to consider. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Dryer Model #MDE4000AYW

It is dangerous to do but you have to turn dryer on while it is apart and wait for limit to open up, then test. !st make sure all connections are ok. The clips and the nuts all need to be tight. If any look dark or burnt that may be your weak link. If you are sure that everything is else is working ok, a set of high limit switches is not very expensive. The voltage is 220 so if your careful you can test at each junction, but be careful..

Posted on Sep 18, 2010

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1 Answer

Why doesn't my Maytag dryer model LDE712 heat. All things related to check have continuity.


Sometimes you have to disconnect elements of the heating system to check continuity ('element's' as in 'parts of').

Can only be 4 things

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Replace fuse dryer model GEQ8821LLO


Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You never explained what the problem was. Dryer not running? No heat? Dryer shutting down. It could be as simple as cleaning out your dryer hot air distribution manifold. A dryer will not run if you do not have good air flow due to lint blockage. A dryer will not run if you have a bad door switch. You can Ohm components out with a multi-meter, setting the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You should get a reading of "0" if the component is good.


1.) Dryer Door Switch - This switch replaces your dryer door's switch.
  • You may need to remove your dryer's lint screen and lint screen housing before lifting its top panel to reach its existing switch.
  • Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.
This Dryer Door Switch part #3406107 Cost $20.00

25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-0.jpg

Dryer Door Switch - Unplug the dryer before replacing the door switch.
This Dryer Door Switch part #279782 Cost: $22.00


Thermal Cut-Off- This component is located on your heating element housing,. you may be able to access it at your hot air distribution manifold in the back of your unit.
  • When replacing your dryer's fuse, replace its thermostat, too. The thermostat should have prevented the dryer's existing fuse from blowing. The high-limit thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit) and the thermal cut-off fuse to 360 degrees (Fahrenheit).
  • Install the fuse in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation

  • Part #: 3977394 Cost: $33.00
    25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-9.jpg Cost: $34.00
    The high-limit thermostat replaces your dryer's thermostat.
    • The thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit).
    • Install the thermostat in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.
    This High-Limit Thermostat part #3390291
    Hot Air Distribution Manifold:
    This is in the back of your dryer and easily unbolted. If you are plugged up with lint your unit will shut down. Remove this component and clean the lower discharge end.
    25432459-jpgjqed1aonpcy4b0i04xdgb-5-14.jpg So, tell me what the problem is, and I will tell you how to fix it.

    Peter,
    Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA

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    It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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    Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


    The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

    Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

    jahn27_42.jpg
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    Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

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    The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

    Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

    jahn27_42.jpg
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    jahn27_43.jpg
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    Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

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