Question about Your One Source Homeline Load Center, 200 Amp

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Are factory installed breakers already bonded

I have a load center the electrical inspector is telling me it needs a bond screw but there is no place to put one I also read that factory installed breakers are already bonded is this true

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Get a letter from the manufacturer saying that the panel assembly and components meet all applicable National, State and Local codes. The inspector is an xss.

Posted on Nov 21, 2013

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muttandjeff
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SOURCE: do i need to bond the panel frame to a grounded bus ?

yes but to frame ground only not the neutral buss as this is to stay isolated

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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I purchased a GE Power Mark Gold 100A load center to use as a sub panel. I need help with the proper setup please?


There should be a diagram inside the box showing correct set up. If in doubt, have an electrician connect it.

Jun 19, 2017 | GE Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have a 200 amp homeline loadcenter with factory installed breaker the code inspector is telling me that it has to have a bonding screw however there is no tapped hole for a bonding screw. I read that...


For the neutral buss bar, a bonding screw goes through the buss bar into the box. Same for the ground buss bar. Usually, neutral does not meet ground until the meter, so there may only be a bonding screw for the ground buss bar. Look carefully, check with electricians.

Nov 21, 2013 | Your One Source Homeline Load Center, 200...

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I have a 200 amp homeline loadcenter with a factory installed breaker and the code inspector is telling me we need a bonding screw however there is no tapped hole for a bonding screw


I checked my code sheet, and only the ground bus is to be bonded to the box. The box comes with a screw that will bond the bus to the box through a bus mounting hole, the threaded hole is down there, behind the bus. The neutral does not get bonded to the box.

Nov 21, 2013 | Your One Source Homeline Load Center, 200...

1 Answer

I recently had new service installed. 200 amp load center at the top of my stairs, and a QOM2E2200NRB 200 amp enclosed breaker next to the meter socket. Idiot electrician bonded the neutral in the load...


Problem is not clear.
You have 200 Amp cut off by meter, with 3 wires from meter box:
2 Hot wires and a ground.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

You have 200 amp service panel.
Does the ground wire enter service panel from cut off box?

Feb 24, 2013 | Electrical Supplies

2 Answers

I am taking electricity from my home to my garage. I have a Q06-12L100s load center in the garage and want to know how to connect the wiresl. The ground is obvious. The white wire is connected to the big...


Here's a picture of a messy amateur installation:

steve_con_74.jpg

Look closely and find the power feeder conductors entering the panel on the bottom. The white rises up to the right and terminates in the "neutral" bus lug on the top right. The black also rises up to the right and terminates in the left "line" bus lug on the left. The red wire rises up to the left and terminates in the "line" bus lug on the right - just below the neutral lug. Finally, the ground rises left and terminates in a separate ground bar that is secured directly to the back of the upper left side of the panel box in pre-tapped holes for this purpose.

Since you are supplying this panel from your home's panel, you MUST keep the neutral and ground feeders separated in this panel (even though they will both probably originate from the neutral bar in your home's service panel). You must NOT install the long "bond" screw through the neutral bar in to the panel box. If the long bond screw is already installed, you must REMOVE it (usually this screw it shipped loose in a bag with a tag on it).

When the picture was taken, the flash reflected back making the right side of the neutral bar difficult to see - so I can't determine if the screw is installed there or not. When connecting circuits to this panel, the hot wires will of course go to the circuit breaker terminals, but the neutral and ground wires must not be mixed. The ground wires (and ONLY the ground wires) must terminate in the ground bar. The neutral wires (and ONLY the neutral wires) must terminate in the neutral bus bar. The person that wired this panel has mixed them. This would be a dangerous situation if the the long bond screw mentioned above is installed in the neutral bar to bond it to the panel box.

I hope this helps and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thanks.

Jun 18, 2011 | Square D Co. QO612L100S Main Lug Load...

1 Answer

Ok , im trying to find out why im useing so much electrity every month , and some one said it might be bleeding through the ground , just checking i seen the only ground goes to the electric meter box out...


The meter at the pole should have a main breaker. At that point the neutral (white wire) will be bonded to the ground and connected to one or more ground rods. from the meter to your mobile home will be an equipment ground that should not be bonded to the neutral in the panel inside your home. The equipment ground from you panel going to the frame is bonding the frame of your home to the equipment ground.

Your large loads will be your Range, Clothes Dryer, Heat, Hot water. A good indicator will be your meter spinning rapidly (the horizontal disc) during heavy use. Turn off all circuits in the home and check that the meter is not spinning. If it is then there is another load other than your home on the service.

Mar 01, 2011 | Hammering

1 Answer

What gauge wire do I need to lead into the BR816L125R load center? it is going to the feed through lugs off my 200 amp service breaker.


Hi .. If the load center is next to the main panel you can use #2 copper or #1aught aluminum. You need to use 4 wires .. two hot, neutral, and ground. And in your load center you will need a 125amp main breaker and you will need to keep the neutral bus separate from the box, do not use the bonding screw. You will then need to install a ground bar to the back of the box for the ground wires connection.
any thoughts, questions.?

Jun 19, 2010 | Cutler Hammer Cutler-Hammer...

3 Answers

I have a 3 wire dryer and need to convertto a 4


The following link explains how to correctly install a 220VAC appliance cord:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

Match the corresponding colors at the terminal block, making sure the Neutral (White) and Ground (Green or Bare Copper) wires are NOT terminated together.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Feb 03, 2010 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Where to wire the ground when changing a three prong to a four pr


This cover is all different sizes and shapes depending on the manufacturer of the dryer, but it is typically very close to where the cord enters the dryer. The cover is typically held in place with 1 - 4 screws. See image to the right of a Maytag Performa dryer access panel.
04b796a.jpg With the cover open you will see a terminal block with three wires. Black on one end, white in the middle and red on the other end. Use your 3/8′ nutdriver to remove the nuts or a phillips screwdriver to remove the bolts (depending on your dryer) and remove each dryer cord wire from the terminal block. When you remove the nuts or bolts, be careful not to drop them down into your dryer. Now you need to install a bonding jumper from the neutral terminal to the dryer’s frame. The bonding jumper is either a metallic strap (typically copper or copperclad) or a green wire that is connected between your dryer’s neutral (white wire) terminal and the green ground screw connected to your dryer’s frame.
Installing this bonding jumper is an extremely important step when changing from a 4-wire to a 3-wire power cord to prevent electrical shocks when touching anything metallic on your dryer.
If you do not have the original bonding strap, you can make one. You need a short piece of green 10 AWG wire, 2 ring terminals, a pair of wire strippers and a pair of crimpers. Strip both ends of the green 10 AWG wire and crimp one ring terminal onto each end of the wire. Now connect one end of the wire to the neutral (center) terminal and the other end to the dryer’s frame; where your ground is connected now. a9fc1b2.jpg Loosen the screws at the connector and pull the cord out. Now thread your new cord through the connector and tighten down. This only needs to be snug do not over tighten. Sometimes the old connector will work with the new cord and sometimes not. If not, your new cord will include a connector that you may use. To hook up your new 3-wire dryer cord, connect each wire to the dryer’s terminal block. The 2 outer wires are your “hot” wires and the center wire is the neutral. Replace the access panel cover and your new 3-wire dryer cord is installed Before plugging in your new dryer cord, I recommend turning off the breaker to your dryer receptacle. Then plug in your dryer. Now turn the breaker back on. This is not fool proof, but it is a safer way to turn on the power to your dryer if you made a mistake connecting your new dryer cord.
If your dryer is different from the one described above and would like a second opinion on your connections, email a picture of the terminal block to info at ezdiyelectricity dot com. I will post the pictures on this page to help others with the same dryer.

Apr 05, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Do i need to bond the panel frame to a grounded bus ?


yes but to frame ground only not the neutral buss as this is to stay isolated

Dec 06, 2008 | Your One Source Homeline Load Center, 200...

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