Radio static from cooper wiring devices occupancy sensor

Your description doesn't explain the circuit, the function of the wires or how the switch controls the outlet and whether the switch is a single pole or two-pole switch. Without such details it is difficult to visualise the circuit.

I advise before you go further to test the sensor in a known good and correctly wired outlet using a length of cable and a suitable plug for the outlet. It is possible the unit is faulty. If it functions correctly on test you will need to understand the circuit and the function of the wires before you rewire it to assure success.

This is the Cooper product #6107; Standard Series Occupancy Sensor, 3-Way, 500W/400W, Incandescent, Halogen, Fluorescent Rapid Start Ballast.

Do NOT use to control light fixtures with CFL or LED lamps!

Connect this switch by using the diagram for the #6107 Single-Pole or 3-Way (match your existing switch) linked below.

https://objects.eanixter.com/PD365967.PDF

Remove the two sensors. If they are connected to your lighting on the same circuit you may need to replace then with '3-Way Switches'.
Also see this warning: http://www.saferproducts.gov/ViewIncident/1232148

Copy following link for simple walk-thru how to wire occupancy switch
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.html

This device is made to replace single-pole switch.
Power to fan: note the horsepower range for device: for example if occupancy switch is rated 1/4 Hp, then it will work for ordinary bath fan. If device is rated for 1/3-1/2 Hp then it is rated for whole-house fan.
Each fan motor will have rating plate showing Hp. Check rating labels for each device.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

LED bulbs with leaking motion sensors tend to flicker as well, more so than CFL. I switched to Cooper style - but now my Cooper OS310u will sense motion - and keep sensing motion almost all the time. If it's in test mode - it will shut off but otherwise it keeps sensing it. This is in a garage - and door open or closed does not seem to affect it. I have the same unit working in my basement just fine.

suggestion - don't try LEDs to solve the problem and yes - it will burn out your CFLs real fast.

There is a switch on the front that allows for different times before shutdown. Also there is a smaller dial beneath the panel that lets you adjust the sensitivity. Try adjusting it to be more sensitive ( + ) so that you are seen and then the timer should kick in.

wires under the seat try disconnecting the connections and rubbing contacts with a black lead graphite pencil?' often works

I answer questions for free.
I know electrical wiring.
I am unsure about a few things in your question.
Are you wanting to know how to wire a product you purchased?
Are looking for a wiring diagram to see if you can do what your want?

1) Is your circuit a 3-way circuit with 2 switches controlling both lights?
2) Or are there 2 different circuits where each switch controls one light?

Here is a Leviton manual with wiring for occupancy sensors:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Leviton-IPP0R-1LW.pdf
If you want sensors to replace 3-way switches, you need a control sensor and a remote sensor.


Click link below to see this image clearly
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-way-sensor-600.jpg

Add a comment and I will get back to you with specific details about wiring.

Hey,
take a look at www.airbagmodul.com

They're working in Airbag-Simulators and Occupancy Sensor-Simulators.

Regards

Gerrit

Hey,
take a look at www.airbagmodul.com

They're working in Airbag-Simulators and Occupancy Sensor-Simulators.

Regards

Gerrit