Question about Refrigerators
The freezer should go down to about zero degrees. If your unit is constantly running it is because the internal temp has not activated the thermostat to turn off the compressor. Lower than normal refrigerant levels could account for this. Also to be checked out is the evaporator coil not being frozen over with a block of ice - the latter is caused by an inoperable self defroster - this causes the freezer to not cool properly and raise all internal temps.
If not a self defrosting unit, defrost the unit and restart unit. It will cool properly until the evaporator freezes up again. How fast it freezes up depends on how often the freezer door is opened and how much moist warm air enters the freezer compartment.
Posted on Nov 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Freezer quits working
Solution Found! The problem is when the temperature surrounding the
refrigerator in the garage falls to < 45 degrees, the thermostat
regulating the refrigerator will not call for the compressor to kick in
to provide cooling (it's temperature requirements are being met). Since
there is no demand, the compressor will not cycle, which is how the
freezer is kept cold, and the freezer eventually warms up to match the
refrigerator temperature. Frigidaire makes a "Cold Kit" that I ordered
and installed from RepairClinic.com for $22 (Item
#: 1037646; Description: Garage kit). It's basically a strip heater
that runs off the control power to warm the thermostat and causes the
compressor to cycle once to twice a day to keep the freezer frozen.
After installation, the refrigerator stays at 40-45 and the freezer
stays around 0 degrees.
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
SOURCE: Fisher Paykel Fridge Freezer
I have a Fisher and Paykel E442B upside down, which is a very similar model, and I just fixed the same problem (temperature was around -4C even though I set the fridge temperature as warm as possible).
The cause of my problem was excessive ice build up on the side of the evaporator coil (which is in the back of the freezer compartment behind the rear plastic panel). I had the same problem around a year or so ago, so I expect it to be a regular occurence. To defrost the coil, I removed all the drawers in the freezer, and the plastic insert by pulling out the bottom of the panel out and rotating it upwards until it released at the top. There are a couple of snap-in tabs holding the panel in, so with a bit of pulling they released. The tabs are either side of the slot at the bottom of the panel.
I then supported the panel horizontally on the top shelf so that I didn't have to disconnect the thermostat wire and the circulating fan wire.
With a small fan heater set on low, aimed roughly at the ice buildup on the left hand side of the evaporator coil, I defrosted the ice built up. This took around 2 hours or so. Then put it all back together and it worked fine.
I'm not sure why the ice build up on the side caused the problem, but presumably it interferes with the proper flow of cold air to the fridge compartment.
If you don't seem to have ice build up like I did, then it could be a thermostat problem, or a fan problem (a symptom of which would be fridge being colder at the bottom than at the top).
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.
If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,
After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.
The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.
Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.
When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.
Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
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