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Re: takes weeks to freeze
If you freezer has a defrost timer it should have done the defrost on its own. Only the very old freezers had to be defrosted manually. If it continues to stop cooling or you already haven't had the timer replaced or the defrost elements checked let me know.
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If this freezer is running all of the time and only freezing the walls at the top inside it is a good chance there is deteriation in the piping in the walls eg (rusty pipes) letting the refridgerant escape (common fault) with chest freezers.If it is more than 7 years old it would be advisable to replace it as the repair would probably cost 3 quarters of replacement price.Hope this helps. Kind Regards.
Hi, Remove everything in the freezer. Get as much ice out as possible with out using sharp object. You will need to remove the rear evaporator panel inside the freezer and locate the drain hole below the evaporator. The safest way is to use a hair dryer. Once you can get to the drain hole and get the ice down inside the drain thawed (a few glasses of hot water usually gets the job done) Try and run a wire (I use a hose or biasting seringe) and get that drain hole flushed out real good. Sometimes it takes 45 minutes or so. After that is cleaned out, put the rear panel back on and you should be all set.
I hope I have helped you. Please let me know if I can be of more assistance.
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
prevent recurrence. Behind the upper
freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few
days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille
(full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic
tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the
back). Your problem is too much ice
blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades'
down the back behind the bottom drawer. When you manually
defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost
won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days. I have found that
the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect
the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom
of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with
tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the
door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is
unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off![There is a fan in this area that could start
up without warning] Check how much of
the pipe is blocked by gentle probing
with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This
measurement is important… When the pipe is
clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure
how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block
of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting
more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an
old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the
coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney'
rather than upwards. There's no point steaming
the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when
your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when
you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney'
has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this
right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no
steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the
top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time
to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes. Don't forget to
replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air
from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been
defrosting. Take a lot of
care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid
website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens. Some of these
tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting)
so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back
of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left
of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove
the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer
and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge
from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle
built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with
longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a
larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the
floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath
This is the moisture coming out of the food. It is what causes freezer burn.
The problem is made worse in frost free models by the defrost cylce. Best way to slow it down is to use vacuum bags or freezer bags. Also above 0 F food deterioates faster and below it gets freezer burn and the moisture problem faster.
My Bosch Frost Free Fridge Freezer did the same thing - Ice forming in the bottom of the freezer area after a few days.
It was caused by a blocked drain pipe - When the freezer does the de-frosting cycle, the melted ice drips into a tray and tehn runs into a dish on top of teh compressor, through a pipe.
If this pipe gets blocked, the de frosted ice overflows from the tray and overflows into the bottom of the freezer and then re-freezes !
To fix, pull the freezer away form the wall, locate the pipe that runs to the dish on top of the compressor and blow through it - This should clear it. Alternatively, from inside the freezer compartment, pull off the cover at the back, but the clips holding it on will probably break off, as mine did ! You can sort of push the cover back on and re-fit the food draws.