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Re: will not turn on
Undo the black plastic caps, one on each side. You probably need new carbon brushes. Remove them carefully and note that the brushes will only fit one way there is a blocking stop on the inner edge of the brush holder, you can see it with a torch when brush is out. Line the chamfered off corner of the new carbon brush up with the blocking stop. On one side it is at the back at the top and the other at the back at the bottom ( I think )
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The precise model number and ML number would be helpful. It would tell if you have a safety cage and bowl height sense switch. There are huge differences between a D300, and an HL300. If you do have the cage, and nothing works, I would suspect you may have lost the magnet from the safety cage. Golden rule of trouble shooting is, "What has changed"
This could be a lot of things, my approach is to start right at the beginning and work through the electrics to find the fault.
Start by making sure the power socket is working (obvious I know). Check to see if the switch on the mixer clicks when you turn the back, also using a multimeter to make sure there is no resistance when it's 'on'. Check the power relay clicks when the power comes on, 2 things go wrong with relays (1) Magnetic coil dies and wont move the contact arm, (2) internal contacts get dirty through use and don't make a good circuit anymore. After checking those I doubt there would be much use looking further unless you're into electronics, as the rest is tied up with the variable resistor in the back twist housing and controls the speed of the motor.
ECARRERO2004 - Those 'magnets' you removed from the sides of your mixer are the electric motor brushes that provide power to the commutator/armature assembly so your motor runs. Did you remove the brushes to replace them or were you just inspecting them? I'd suggest removing them again and making sure the contacts are facing in the right direction to contact the commutaor. The concave contact face should be resting completely on the comutator. If you've turned it 90 degrees too much, it wont' seat properly and you'll get no 'juice' to the electric motor so it won't start. I hope this helps - Howard, Burke, VA If this solution has helped you, please rate it. hslincoln
Look at the brush from the side.. The surface that rides on the armature is curved> One leg is longer than the other leg. The long leg is the trailing and the short is the leading edge. Looking at the cooper end of the motor you can tell which way the motor rotates by the traces the brushes make. The leading edge will be on the clean side and the trailing edge is the side that is smeared black.on tthe copper. The long leg of the curve on each brush goes on the smearch side of those copper bars the brush rides on. Both brushes. Looking in the hole of the brush holders you will see what I mean. When you put the brushes in, you must make sure they are up against the copper and the springs are holding them down evenly.. You can lift the brush carefully and let it go to make sure it is working freely. Now, see if you can put an attachment on and turn it by hand. I'm not sure you will be able to so don't bend anything or hurt yourself.. Put the brush caps back on, remove the attachment and plug the mixer in.. Attachments off, fingers clear, turn it on. Does it run? If not, tap the mixer on its side with your hand.. Make sure the switch is on high. Tap it several times if need be. This is to straighten up the brushes to where the springs want them. When the motor starts turning, slight taps help. Keep it going until it picks up speed and let run for five minutes to seat the brushes. Let me know if it still won't run. I'll be watching for a comment from you.
If you remove the bowl guard you will see a magnet that attaches on iy in a white housing.The scews come loose and prevent it from closing the switch.Also the switch which comes out of the top pedestal can be adjusted.Let me know.
1. Remove the acorn nut, hex nut, and washer that hold the "planetary" agitator section on the transmission shaft. 2. Remove the trim ring (if any) around the same. 3. The agitator section should now be able to be worked free. 4. Remove the retainer clip on the top of the agitator shaft. (Some models have a pair of hex nuts here; if so, remove those.) 5. Pry the gear up and off the shaft. Remove the square key from the shaft keyway at the same time. 6. Tap gently on the top of the agitator shaft to drive it out from the bearings and grease seal. 7. Recommend removing and replacing the top bearing at this time; it's inexpensive to replace, if you're in this deep. 8. Use a suitable diameter piece of round steel stock to drive out the lower bearing and oil seal. I don't recommend using the agitator shaft. 9. Clean thoroughly, insert a new bottom bearing and oil seal, drive in place with a rubber mallet. 10. Replace agitator shaft through oil seal and bearing, tap gently into place. 11. Fill cavity with approved lubricant. I use USP-grade mineral oil, as it is food-safe and provides satisfactory lubricity. 11. Install top bearing, tap gently into place. 12. Reverse steps 5-1 to reassemble.
First thing, check the Hall Effect Sensor (part # 9703312) to make sure that it is seated snugly AND properly! The Hall Effect sensor measures the speed of a tiny rotating magnet and basically tells your mixer how fast it should rotate. I was experiencing the same problem that many others have described here--my mixer would go really fast no matter what speed I put it on and it would shut off after five seconds. I came to the FixYa site and saw that one solution that seemed to work was to replace the Hall Effect sensor. So I went to a local hardware store and purchased a new Hall Effect Sensor for about $13. After I replaced the "defective" sensor, my mixer still did not work. So, I started experimenting with the three prong orientation of the control board--this can make a big difference. After a little trial and error, I found the correct orientation for the sensor and my mixer worked good as new! But I was curious to see if the improper orientation was the cause of my original "defective" sensor. So I put the "defective" sensor back with the proper orientation and THIS ALSO FIXED MY SPEED PROBLEM! There was nothing wrong with my original Hall Effect Sensor at all--it simply was not snugly or properly seated! I'm not sure how it happened--possibly over time the sensor prongs may have become unseated from the vibrations of running the mixer on high speeds--but my original Hall sensor was not seated properly or snugly. So before you run out and buy a new Hall Effect sensor make sure that the original one is not only snugly seated but also properly oriented! If I knew how to add digital pics, I would have put pictures in my comments to clearly demonstrate what I found. Unfortunately, I am not sure how to do this.
To sum this up:
1. Download the parts information and diagrams from the Kitchenaid site and find the Hall sensor (part # 9703312).
2. Make sure that the Hall sensor is firmly attached on both ends. The actual sensor should be located next to a tiny magnet and this end needs to be securely seated. And the other end of the Hall effect sensor has three small prong holes which also need to be firmly and corrected seated to the control board!
Bottom line, my mixer is working like new and I put the original Hall Effect sensor back in the mixer. I'm going to hold on the new one as a backup...you never know.