Question about Ingersoll Rand Type 30 Electric Driven Two Stage Horizontal Air Compressor 120 Gallon Fully Packaged Ir 2545E10VFP

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How to wire a three phase compressor - Ingersoll Rand Type 30 Electric Driven Two Stage Horizontal Air Compressor 120 Gallon Fully Packaged Ir 2545E10VFP

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

vegakitten20
  • 685 Answers

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram not a scematic

Rotary Phase Convertor You will find bundles of stuff about building and running phase converters on Yank sites, the main differance is in the UK we have proper lecy, 230 everwhere and three phase is three lot's of that, quite what they have in the states I am unsure, whatever the setup they have around 200 volts three phase - someplaces seem to have 208 some 230- and i think they also have 440 and 600, gets weirder.
Anyway in 'blighty' we have three lot's of 240Volts so that's a phase voltage of approx 415Volts, from one conductor to another that is, no neutrals here- well there is but forget about them. The basis of the rotary converter is a transformer at approx 1.73:1. That gets 415 volts to wack across phase one and three in my diagram, then the motor generates the third phase, well a few caps to ballance it and thats it sort of it.
you can get a three phase motor, spin it and apply some 240 volt's to it, it will happily run and produce the third phase. the voltage will be low but it will run other motors. I gather some motors are rated for 230 volts three phase so no transformer needed, but an alectirician said he can't remeber seeing 230 volt's on three pahes motors and all the ones i have are 415/440, then there is the talk about they are alright wired delta, well all my old motors are wired delta the only ones I am not sure about - 3 wired- are modern motors.
convertor.gif The diagram is a bit confusing, so I can't draw. I did the whole thing off the top of my head, that's why I just spent ages wondering why it wouldn't balance;-) it was much clearer before I started to add the control wiring. the stop switch is a normaly closed switch, the start switch presses the conatactor in, I need to wire it to a switch so I can setup some remote on/off point's
The setup above has voltages of something like 457, 427 and 464 Volts unloaded. whan it's loaded with a running mill taking a cut I get 426, 427 and 427, first thing in the morning it did have all three at 429V. the current is 4.1, 4.2 and 4.2 amps.
I bought 100, 60 and 40 Uf caps. When I sat and figured out capacitances possible with these, I was quite suprised to find the number of permutations possible was so high. I am running L1-L2 fixed capacitance of 34.3Uf and the switched caps are the run caps from phase L2-L3 and the start caps on these phases, the start caps are 200 Uf, though I did have it starting with 100 - but I had drilled holes for two caps in the enclose;-)
I had a static converter, from which I copied the way they switched the start caps out. Simply a capacitor being charged with DC across the contacts of a relay, hence the bridge recitfier and resistor.
there is also a breaker, I am told it's an 'MCB', the whole caboddle is supplied via a fuse but the mcb means you can take liberties while playing with it and you don't need to have to keep replacing fuses...**** it and see, electrickery..
I checked the voltages on the caps while I was fooling around and the ones 'burried' in a pack had several hundred volt's dc on them-days after turning it off-so I put resistors to bleed the voltage off, means you can stick your hands in it and move the wiring around without getting bitten - though I still check them first.
I put it together in an old computer case, it did the job but looked like something Victor [Frankenstein] would have had. I got this rather nice fire panel- with loads of relays and nice neat wiring, which i tore out- I mounted the contactors and relay on a DIN rail and put the switched caps in the enclosure. then knocked up a large box to put the transformer in, the other caps live with the transformer. The idea was to rubber mount the motor on top of the transformer box and mount the main convertor enclosure on the wall. The motor is on top of the trans' box but the box vibrates with the motor - it runs a bit rough when unloaded. So I might have to rethink that, I have the motor on a sheet of Plastezoate and the box is on adjustable feet and they are on rubber.
Anyway it works and I have power that runs all the motors on my bit's'n'pieces and even runs a 5hp type 30 Ingersol Rand compressor, though it needs some extra caps - the idler motor rocks in time with the compressor, starts it at 175lbs though....
convertor02.jpg I will sort out my voltages and capacitances, I wrote down all the voltages for a large number of capacitances, when you have a list like that its easy to see the trends and how to alter the voltages, I opted to tune the mill and lathe spindles as clean as I could, I will only need to add capacitace to the compressor.
convertor01.jpg Well it all got bolted to the wall.
Well almost done, it's amazing the number of little bit's you need to finish a job; I still need some more armoured cable or cable and conduit... hint hint young Maxwell. If you need any electrical testing try Max Knight Electrical, he doesn't touch conductive surfaces when he comes to my garage;-)
Anyway the box bolted to the wall with the two yellow buttons is the converter, the transformer and idler sit below, on the floor, The transformer weighs 40+ kg so i didn't want to put it in a box that i woudl have to lift, well i did but i didn't scrounge a big enough box.
I still have to tidy it all up, put a few more three phase spurs in and make a dc control circuit, so i can run a controll wire and buttons around to a few strategic point's - the places that you can usaully get at without having to climb over a motorcyle or a stack of old car bit's..
Of course the box came with a nice white engraved plate on the front, I spose I will paint 'on' and 'off' next to the relevant button, as I am the only one to use it it probably don't matter...Still it would be nice to find a bit of formica and cover the holes - formica do they still sell that?

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: I need to build a single phase to three phase

You will need a rotary converter for this, or a single phase motor. A three phase motor absolutely cannot be made to run on single phase otherwise.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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Essick air compressor wiring diagram


telepathy do not work that hot as in hollywood movies...

you need to provide a model or at least if this is three phase or single phase...

single phase is easy, you have cord with three wires, earth, active and neutral.

you need to open connection box on your compressor and you will find three wires there terminating in junction box, earth connect to earth (usually green or green with yellow stripes), then you have your neutral (usually brown or black) and active (usually blue or red), connect them, do not put cover on yet, plug cable into the power point and switch on/off power. check if motor is rotating in correct direction, if fuses are not blown... if motor is rotating in wrong direction - switch power wire with neutral wire, it just meant that you wired it in reverse...

do not need diagram for that...

do not forget to give some points...

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threett phase takes another hot from main so you will be adding another hot on to youer line to make mo tor work .problm is most services arent three phase that are residental their only two legs of 120 that combined make 240 n so on

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I have a 3 phase electrical motor for my air compressor, How would i connect this from the air compressor pressure switch and towards the electrical source 120V? (for low volt)


If the electrical 120 volt source is single phase, the only way to run this motor is with a single phase to three phase converter. Best to sell the three phase motor and obtain a similar horsepower 120 volt single-phase capacitor-start motor (1750 RPM) for the compressor. You would also require a 3-phase pressure switch for use with the 3-phase motor. Hope this helps!

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I,m not exactley sure how to connect the wiring to the capacitor,on a three phase unit,or one that is wired for three phase (a/c).


If it is a three phase motor then it will not require a capacitor. Residential A/C compressors and fan motors have 3 wires coming out of then but they are not three phase, they are still single phase. If you are working with a residential system then you should have one wire that is common, one wire that is the start winding, and one wire that is the run winding. To connect it, L1 from the contactor would connect to one side of the capacitor. Connect the run wire to the same side of the capacitor. Connect the start wire to the opposite side of the capacitor. The common wire will connect to L2 on the contactor.

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If the unit is single phasing this is not good for the compressor. Does the system have a phase monitor? If not I would suggest you put one in to save thousands of dollars on the replacement of the compressor. How is the oil level? I ask because this are not to run themselves out of oil.

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You will use two of the original three wires. Not knowing if you have a motor starter and how it is wired makes it impossible to give you details.

BE AWARE that a 7.5 HP single phase motor is going to draw a massive starting surge compared to a three phase motor. I assume this is on a 240 volt system as it would NOT be practical to use a motor that size on a 120 volt system.

Expect to require around a 30 to 50 amp single phase feed to the motor.

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Looking at the model number, it appears to be a 3 ton. (36,000 btu) Most all residential units are single phase and most all commercial are 3 phase. One way to tell, look to see if the compressor has a capacitor. 3 phase never use capacitors on the compressors as they are not needed. Some residential units have a "Dual" capacitor. That is, it has 3 terminals, 1 common, 1 for condenser fan motor, and 1 for the compressor. Also, this info should be printed on the unit's lable.
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