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Kenmore Elite 67851 Dryer will not heat up

My dryer does not dry at all in any cycle. If you set the cycles y will run them but there is no heat in the system. I recently moved to another city and had new connections installed. It only worked the first couple of drys. After that the breaker automatically turned off. I turned the breaker to the on position again and now my dryer will not heat up. Any suggestions?

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SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Oasis Dryer 6705 not start

I take the timed approach with appliance problems. If they occur 10 years after purchase, I buy a new one. If five years, I call a repair service and measure the cost of repair against the purchase of a replacement. If one year or less after purchase, I pile the expensive, offending, useless lump of an example of the decline of American workmanship into the back of my pickup and push it out on the doorstep of the store where I purchased it.

I find this method to be the most cost-effective and least troubling. And costs me about the same as calling the repair service.

In fact, right now I'm loading up my Kenmore Elite Oasis 6705, purchased March 13, 2007, (note that the problem began one month AFTER the warranty ran out) in the back of my pickup and I will make at quick stop at Sears to push it off the back of my truck (I find if I don't stop, but keep the truck rolling it makes for a much louder and attention grabbing drop off) then find the nearest hardware store so I can purchase some strong nylon line to string across my backyard so I can dry my clothes. I also purchase a bit of extra line so that I have enough to string up any Sears or Kenmore representatives who might stop by to inquire about the appliance they found on their doorstep.

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 dryer stays cold

you probably need a new heater element.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer smells like gas when running and only drys some of the time

repl/ coils ,, thats what usually happens

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 Dryer clothes not dry after cycle

it sounds like a clog in vent.if yours vents up thru roof you may need to have a chimney sweep come out and sweep vent.check and make sure the vent hose is net kinked or full of lint.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore elite quietheat front loading dryer not drying. Moisture builds up on the window inside.

It normally takes about 45 minutes for a dryer to dry a full load. If your dryer is taking more than an hour, check these.

Heating element
Internal ductwork
Cycling thermostat
Vent Frequently there's an obstruction in the vent duct from the dryer to the outside of the house. For the dryer to heat properly, the duct must be clean and clear of lint or any other substance.

Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

Internal ductwork Your dryer has some internal ductwork. If it gets clogged, your dryer can't dry properly. In most dryers, to get to the internal ductwork to clear the clog, you have to substantially disassemble the dryer. A quick way to check for internal clogs is to remove the lint filter and use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the duct. If it looks clogged and you can't clear it using your vacuum, contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

Cycling thermostat Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork with two screws.

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Smartheat Quietpak 9 HE4 dryer taking longer to dry

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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How to replace a heating element on a Kenmore Elite Oasis ST dryer

Sounds like you need to replace the timer one the dryer not the element but to make sure I would do a little trouble shooting to rule out the element or heating coil turn on dryer cycle like normal for about 30 seconds then open the door to feel for heat if you do feel heat its your cycle/timer knob if you don't feel heat then it's the coil or element witch are the same also first always check your lint trap and ducts going outside the dryer make sure you have proper airflow through ducts vents. clogged vents ducts ect. Cause over heating of element coil causing a safety fuse to shut down heating coil/element but will not stop cycle also moisture censors detect moisture causing cycle to continue on hope this helps.

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Takes too long to dry or keeps running when clothes are dry

If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

  • The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.

  • When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)

  • The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.

This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.

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check for blocked vent tube.You should have a very strong flow coming out.If it is weak it will run badly.It is a common call.If its not weak air flow than run the dryer for at least 20 minutes.Open the door and if has no heat inside .......change the split coils. Please Rate This !!!

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