Question about GE Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have the same issues as above, ice maker makes ice but will not dispence or give water,
when I push the lever to get anything the lights go out and the fans slows or stops until I let go of lever.
Side by side GE : Model # GSH25KGRE WW / Serial # MG278521
has anybody else had this issue with this model?
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
I gather your compression cycles on because you have SOME cooling. Your refrigerator should NOT be warmer than 40 F - the range is usually 34~40F, ideal is 36F - anything warmer than 40F is no good.
For the condenser, older models have the condensers at the BACK of the fridge - make sure you have proper clearance at the back of the fridge - newer refrigerators have the coils at the BOTTOM of the fridge into an open space - you cannot completly clean those with a vacuum - you will need to purchase a condenser cleaning brush long enough and allowing you ewasily reach them from under your fridge - you can usually locate those in your hardware store or go to your local appliance store parts center and see if they have it.
As to being low on freon - you never get low on freon, it's a sealed system and the coolant does not run out - you will only need a recharge if you have a sealed system leak - rare but it can happen - you will have to get service to locate the leak first, they have the equipment for that, fix it and then recharge - this is NOT something you can do yourself.
You could try removing the back panel of your freezer and locate the cooling coils under the evap fan - are these over frosted (evenly), then you have a defrost timer problem, you will need to service the defrost timer control and its components. If only part of the coils are frosted, example to the left and the rest is frost free this is a symptom of a leak in the system........either way you will have to get your unit serviced considering it's been 15 years and over - the average life cycle of a compressor is 10 years - some can last longer, and it seems newer ones last much less too - after all these years time to get it serviced - and you better hope it's not the compressor it will cost you ! I hope it's nothing major -and as simple as a defrost timer control board - you can rule that out yourself by shutting down and defrosting manually using a hairdryer (assuming your coils are completly frosted up) if you run fridge and it cools, you got your problem......defrost control! Otherwise partially frosted my bets would go on leak...... You might want to check other sources of cold air leaks through poor gaskets on your doors using the dollar bill method and pulling looking for some resistence.
if all of the above fails and your compressor is bad, it's time for a new energy efficient refrigerator - a compressor that old will cost you at least $400 + the service call + the hourly rate.......
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
SOURCE: "Is there a "defrost" feature
Yes, there is an automatic defrost feature on those models. It is controled by the main electronic control board (mother board) and energizes a defrost heater located under the evaporator (the cooling coils behind the back wall in the freezer). You are setting the freezer temp to zero, but the display return to the actual temperture. The icemaker will not make ice unless it gets below 8 degrees (F). The ice build up indicates a problem. It may be the defrost heater, defrost drain blockage (drain at center of evaporator, directly below it) or a problem with the evaporator fan (the fan inside the freezer). The ice build up could also be caused by a door which did not or is not closing fully, allowing warm moist air to enter the refrig / freezer, causing an unusual amount of frost to deal with. The frost is blocking the cooling coils, preventing transfer of heat to the coils, thus poor cooling. Left unchecked, the freezer packages will begin to thaw and refrig temp will rise soon also.
To get to the evaporator coils, the freezer door, ice maker, dividers, and one side of the drawer slides on the side of the freezer compartment must be removed, allowing the back wall inside the freezer to be removed. Your most likely problem is the defrost heater. Melting all the ice off the coils with a hair dryer will get your unit working fine for at least a week, allowing time to get and install repair parts. There is no fire danger. The orange glow you speak of would be the orange glow at the very back bottom of a freezer when it is in defrost and the heater is on, but on your model, I don't think there is enough air venting there to actually see that with the back wall in place (and if the heater is burnt out, you would never see it anyway). Also, check the icemaker itself to make sure there is no object in it which would obstruct the ejector arm from completing it's revolution to eject cubes. A stuck ejector would add heat to the freezer, but I don't think this is your problem, as that would not account for the ice you see near the icemaker. If you don't want to go through all the work of doing the diagnostic and repair yourself, just unplugging the refrig and leaving the freezer door open for 24 hours will defrost it and get it to work for another week, but a repair person would like to see the unit as it is now, rather than after you have manually defrosted it, if possible.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
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