Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
Does this model even have error codes? (I an answer to my problem for a different model that suggested looking at error codes) My washer does not complete spin or drain cycles... clothes remain soaked. Spin cycle does work sometimes when directly putting the machine in that mode but not in a full cycle. Already replaced the latch lock assembly. Machine less than 6 months old!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite H3t washer
What a blessing to find others with the same exact problem. Had a call in to Kenmore service center and was having to wait 8 days till a repair man could show up. Service call would have been at least $110 for the man to show up at the door. After discovering this website my wife and I are proud to announce that we found two (our 2 year olds) socks and one of my wife's nursing pads clogging up the filter along with some thread and a little gunk. Cleaned it out and in 10 minutes from start to finish we were done. Ran the machine twice and find it is running just like new. Like other postings here we found that a 45 minute wash took 90 minutes because the machine never could spin out on the first try. We thought it had problems balancing out the load of wash. Now it spins out quickly and without wasting time. I think of how much extra money it cost us to run the machine like this. Also, while we were sitting in our laundry room admiring the return of our washer I took a look at our complimentary Kenmore Elite HE3t dryer. Everyone who reads this far please do the following:
1. Unscrew the bottom panel of the dryer (unplug machine first)
2. Unscrew the black metal chute that goes from the lint catcher down to the blower (two sheet metal screws) pullout and clean.
3. Unscrew entire lint catcher from inside. (5 screws total) and clean.
5. One more step to really get all the lint includes pulling the entire machine out and removing the outside vent from the base of the machine. There is a 2 foot pipe to be cleaned out that extends from the other side of the blower.
I could not believe how much lint had bypassed the lint screen and had created a wall in front of the blower. I had previously checked the vent pipe leading to the outside wall and found no buildup whatsoever so I figured everything was okay. Was I ever wrong. I had found that the dryer (which is only 4 and 1/2 years old) was now taking 59 minutes to dry at normal temp instead of
the 41 minutes to dry when we first bought the machine. After I performed this service the dryer was back to drying the clothes in 41 minutes time or even less!!! In the future I will do this service, as described above, on a yearly basis. Once again we were wasting energy because we did not do this simple maintenance.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
I have exactky the same problem Replaced the drum and now it will not final spin, I touched nothing else.Can't figure what could be wrong,speed board too sensitive?
It worked fine before the bearing went.
Posted on Aug 22, 2008
SOURCE: UL Code
Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust? The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles. Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around. Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load. That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
OK, what you are experiencing is a timer mechanism fault. the timer motor is malfunctioning. anytime you have to manually advance the timer knob, this will signal a fault within the control mech. this is easily fixed by, replacing the timer control module. i will place a link to the actual part needed to fix this issue. you can also purchase this timer on line at this site if you wish.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
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