I've bought a new house and the dryer venting is already installed. However, upon inspection I've found there are 6 elbows between dryer hook up and vent outside and it starts at 4" and goes down to 3". This doesn't seem quite right. My questions; Is it safe to reduce to 3" on the venting? How many elbows (90 degree) can the vent pipe have in order to be safe and what is the maximum length of venting pipe that can be used between the dryer and the vent outside? Is there I place on the net where I can print specks for proper installation of this machine? Thank you so much!
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Assuming the dryer is running, and you have checked the vent, the biggest possibility is the element is burn in two. If you want to try to fix it yourself , take the inspection panel off the dryer and inspect the electric element. You will probably be able to see the break in the coil. Most of these elements can be bought at any appliance parts supply
It sounds like it never was the thermostat. Usually when a thermostat goes there is no heat at all, unless it was the cycling t-stat, but unlikely. This sounds like the dryer coils are failing. They tend to fail as they heat up. They are inexpensive and easy to replace.
Here is a video atthis will walk you thru the troubleshooting a gas dryer. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available. If you need help disassembling your machine there are videos of this also for most styles.
It's not the temperature of the air that is the problem. The air is seldom over 160 Deg F. If you have a vent fire the piping needs to last long enough without melting to starve the fire of oxygen in the hopes of extinguishing. Rigid aluminum piping is best suited for this, Rigid flexible is next. The tin foil and white plastic offer little resistance to melting if a fire should begin. The melting would allow the fire to replenish oxygen and support the burning process. The main caution here is to keep your dryer and vent clean...at least annually.
If the duct inside your wall is rigid metal all the way from the dryer to the house exit you need to do nothing to it . Replace the vent between the dryer and the wall with rigid metal 4" piping or hard flexible aluminum piping. If the duct inside your wall is either of the least effective types you need a new run of vent for the dryer to avoid a fire.
You can't use white plastic or flimsy flexible aluminum that feels like aluminum foil when you touch it.
you need a dryer vent brush first,bought at home depot cheap,and clean the entire vent to the house,then clean where the vent hooks up to the machine,if your filter is where your door is pull out the filter and stick the brush in there and pull out lint,also use your vacume,remember you let some lint out when you let the hose blow out but theres a lot more there to clean,and also unplug your machine as you do this,if this helps please give me a fix ya vote
Old dryers worked on the premis, "bake them til they are done". Newer dryers are all about saving energy. Newer dryers rely far more on airflow than thier predecessors. Most likely if your clothes are taking 120 minutes to dry for a new dryer, you have a ventalation problem. Make sure (even if it was "professionally" installed) that the vent from the back of the dryer to your wall in not kinked, bent over, or other wise restricted. Also make sure when the air is venting to the outside of your house you can feel a fair amount of air pressure there. Bulid up over time or even a nest being built in your vent can cause a restriction on airflow. These can be cleaned by a professional service or many appliance and hardware sell cleaning brushes and kits. Worse case scenario, Whirlpool will pay for customer instructs for the first 6 months. So even if they have to come out and tell you it's a problem with your house vent or electrical supply, whirlpool can be billed for this. Of course if there was a manufacture defect off the production line, repairs are still covered under warranty as well.
Your prof. vent cleaner failed to do his job. Ther is a definite restriction in the vent from point A to B, The prof is in the test u performed. You need a straight shot from the dryer to the outside using a class A 4"vent line and a dryer exhaust hood at the termination point,then your problem will be resolved...
"AF" is a restricted air flow condition. You say you've only had your dryer for 3 months, but have you ever cleaned the ducting? You need to check the lint screen after every load, AND you need to perform routine cleaning of the dryer venting (inside the dryer, as well as the vent line from the dryer to where it exits the house) about every three months. If left in this condition, the dryer heating circuitry will eventually failed and/or you could cause a fire hazard. An easy way to check to see if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer. Run the dryer to see if you have air flow coming from the back of the unit. The air should be about 140 degrees F and forceful. Check to see if the error comes back. If everything runs fine, then you know the problem exists in the vent line between the dryer and where it exits the house. If you still have problems, you will need to unplug the dryer, remove the back panel and inspect the interior for clogs. At least you have a dryer that warns you when the air flow become restricted or blocked. Most dryers will continue to run until they overheat or fail. I hope this information is helpful. Post back with your comments and let me know.