Question about Waring Pro WO50 Cordless Wine Opener
Waring pro cordless wine opener wont hold a charge or open a bottle how do i fix it
Posted by Anonymous on
Replacing requires some soldering skills.
1. Remove two screws in bottom end and pull off the bottom sheath.
2. Remove six rubber plugs that camouflage six screws.
3. Remove the six screws. The opener will come apart in halves and the motor assembly may drop free but will still be connected so be a little careful. Take note of the orientation of the larger spring near the bottom and the positions of fittings that mate with the shell.
4. Unsolder two leads connected to the old battery pack and remove it.
5. Now you have options for replacing the battery pack. The pack consists of four Nickel Metal Hydride batteries connected in series.
a. Buy replacements (I didn't do this so I don't know if a pack is available that is already assembled). You might have to buy four same-size batteries and assemble the pack yourself. You can determine size by cutting the shrink wrap away from the battery pack to expose the actual batteries.
b. Buy standard AA (or AAA) cells, rechargeable (Nickel Metal Hydride) cells that are readily available everywhere.
6. (Unnecessary if you found a pre-assembled pack). Assemble a battery pack by soldering battery terminal to battery terminal such that all four batteries are in series. You can arrange adjacent batteries with a plus terminal and a minus terminal next to each other. You can make the four batteries into a pack by winding them with electrical tape.
7. (Unnecessary if you chose step 5A). Using a sharp knife or a Dremel tool, whittle away most of three ribs that are formed into the plastic shell. There are two ribs to do in one of the shell halves and one(+) rib in the other shell half. The (+) rib is near the connector block mounted under the operating switch and you can decide how much of it to whittle away also. The objective is to get the new battery pack to fit in the shell halves when they are re-assembled.
8. Solder the plus(red) wire and the minus(black) wire to the new battery pack -- those are the two wires removed in step 4.
9. Add padding if you desire to keep the battery pack from rattling around inside the shells.
10. Reassemble the shells and the bottom sheath.
11. Enjoy your wine.
Posted on Jul 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: thermal coupling in wine chiller
No, I would not recommend putting water into the chill chamber since if there is a "gap" hole in this compartment, the water could get inside the unit's electronics etc.. which could at the very least short the unit and at worst electrocute you as you take the bottle out/touch the unit. That's the problem with this or any other Peltier/thermoelelectric type of chiller. They are only good for maintaining an ALREADY cold bottle's temperature, not for chilling it rapidly. There is no good or inexpensive way to get better chilling from these types of units. It's the law of themodynamics and heat transfer. Water is the best/safest/most inexpensive medium to use, not chilled air or even super cold air. Cold air or even super cold air just does not match the chilling
potential of a liquid like water. The reason why 50F air is no
problem, for you to be out in for hours, but 50F water you'll get
hypothermia in 20-30 mins.
The best unit for chilling a warm wine bottle is the cooper cooler. Go to www.coopercooler.com. It uses ice and water and sprays the ice cold water over the bottle while spinning it to chill it quickly. This unit is great since it can also chill single serve drinks like beer/soda etc so is more versatile than the other chillers. Cheapest is about $59 which is much less than the waring at ~$100
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
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