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What is the cubic foot for the Whirlpool model LER4634EQ0

I want to replace this dryer with a bigger one, so I need to know how big the present one is.

Posted by Anonymous on


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: how do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool

All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks so very much! Got the fuse yesterday and will try today. I'll let you know. VERY HELPFUL!"

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: replaced element and dryer still won't heat

You replaced the heating element, but did you check the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) or Hi Limit Thermostat? These two components work in conjunction to regulate the temperature of the heating circuits. In most dryer related heat problems, the TCO will fail before the heating element.

The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element leads. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is also located on the outside of the heater box, but is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Both these components should read 0 ohms with a multimeter if good. If either component is found to be defective, you must replace BOTH of them at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace. Thats why these two parts are usually sold as a set. The part number is 279816 and can be purchased at any of the following websites:

You can view a diagram of these components using the helpful exploded view diagrams on the any of the first three websites I have listed. The last website only shows part illustrations. The TCO and High Limit Thermostat will be listed as items 6 and 15 respectively under the "Bulkhead' parts section. NOTE: Item 6 comes with item 15 when ordering.

Another thing to consider is the input voltage at the wall receptacle. Did you verify the voltage was correct? You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

Now if you determine the TCO is defective, it usually blows for a reason. It usually fails due to an overheat condition. This is commonly caused by clogged or poorly installed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't inspected or cleaned the dryer interior, or external ducting recently, now would be a good time to do so before you replace any parts. If left in a poorly ventilated condition, a dryer will overheat to the point of failure. Which may potentially ruin any new parts you replace.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: I need to replace my Dad's dryer (he's out of


Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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go to the back of dryer where the plug connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts,if you don't check the house fuses,unplug the dryer remove the vent line and take off the back panel,on the left side you'll see the duct that the lint filter slides into,to the right of it you'll see a white thermal fuse part 3392519,pull one of the wires off and check it with a meter,if that's bad you need to clean out the dryer,pull out the lint filter and remove the two phillips screws on top,now take out the four screws holding the duct in and clean it out,pull it out and push it to the right so you can clean it.clean out the vent line and the vent outside,if it's a long run from the dryer to the outside vent i use a leaf blower to blow out the line,you should do this once a year,you should pop the top of dryer with a screw driver lift up the top lid,take out the two 5/16 screws one on each side and remove the door switch wires and pull up on the front panel to remove it and clean out the inside of dryer also.if the fuse is good,read out the heater and the thermostats on the heater box,ifyou're not getting 240 to the heater you could have a bad timer,go here and put your model number in and you can see your dryer and all the parts,hope this helps you,if you need anything else let me know Parts & Accessories | Shop & Find Lawn & Garden, Appliance Parts at Sears PartsDirect |

Posted on Mar 09, 2010

  • 3085 Answers

SOURCE: cubic foot size of Maytag PYE4500AYW

7.0 cubic ft.

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

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