Question about Noritz Water Heaters

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No power on unit/Remote Controller

Replaced circuit board. The voltage across the blue/white reads about 100VAC and the voltage across the black/white also reads about 100VAC. Theres voltage on both sides of gfi. No readings the remote terminals. Help!!!

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Try leaving the remote unplugged and unplug the unit for 10 seconds and plug only the unit back in. If you get hot water without the remote connected but nothing after doing the same thing with the remote connected then your remote may have shorted out. Otherwise your circuit board may have had a short. In which case, call Noritz for a replacement.

Posted on Dec 14, 2013

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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gary1121
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SOURCE: Rinnai *85e remote hooked up no hot water and no reading on remot

did you turn the unit off before hooking it up ? Any function on a tankless rennai the pwer has to be turned off and the priority button has to be pushed in,, if you have the manuel it tells you haw to do this,,

Posted on Jun 06, 2009

Dplumber
  • 119 Answers

SOURCE: Not sure if my first try worked so will try again.

The easiest thing to do would be to call Bosch and just ask for a new heater for free. The other option is to call Bosch and have them send you all new elements. If there is power, there should be heat of some kind.

Posted on Sep 14, 2010

  • 5245 Answers

SOURCE: Water heater timer not working or bad wiring?

10/15/2012
Hi Liz.
This is a live answer. And you can add a comment after trying following step, and I will comment back..
Replace battery, and then reset the timer using reset button located to left of display screen.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/eh40-english.pdf

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Posted on Oct 15, 2012

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1 Answer

How can I make a thermostat connection?


Good morning Yakup.

The best way is to write down how the old t-stat was wired. If that's not available, the only way to determine for certain where each wire goes, is to check what the installer did at the terminals in your home comfort system. Please note the there is high voltage electric in each piece of equipment so if you decide to open up panels, there is always the risk of damaging the equipment or worse, injury or death if you are not a qualified service technician. However, typical color assignments are as follows:
R= (24v from heating appliance) Red
RC= (24v from cooling appliance) Red
These two are only separated when you have two different appliances providing seasonal comfort, like a boiler and an air handler. If you have a warm air furnace with an air conditioner or a heat pump attached then R+RC will have a jumper across them and only one RED wire will be landed there
W= (heat) White
Y= (cool) Yellow
G= (fan) Green
Those colors are pretty standard
The rest of the colors depend on availability in the jacket and are really up to the installer. You mentioned 7 wires but 8 conductors is more likely so I'm assuming the remaining colors are black, brown, blue, and orange.
I always use the following:
C= (common) Black
O/B= (reversing valve for a heat pump) Orange if the valve is energized for heat and Blue if the valve is energized for a/c.
Aux/E= (auxiliary or electric heat) Brown
L= I believe this is a diagnostic terminal for some systems with feedback data and is not used frequently.
After wiring there is some programing to do to set up your new thermostat to your type of system.

Hope that helps. God bless and be careful.

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1 Answer

Hot water heater not heating


Hello Nick. probably a simple problem:
1) Check across top two screws on upper element for 240volts.
Circuit breaker can be tripped on one leg so water heater appears to have power, but only has 120Volts to ground, and not full 240Volt potential across both wires.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#electricity

2) Move wires to another same-size circuit breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

3) Add comment and say what you find, and for more assistance Dec 2012

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Dec 12, 2012 | Rheem Water Heaters

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I need the basics for replacing a thermostat on a water heater...Bradford/White brand, model M250S6DS2 50 Gal, 4500 watt per element 240 voltage 50/60 hz. It keeps over heating even at lowest setting


Copy following link for replacing thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Suggest you might also want to test the elements while power is turned off, just in case the problem is element shorted to ground across metal tank to ground wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

At least you know the 240volt power to water heater and the circuit breaker are good.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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I have a Rinnai Model 2532 with an MC-45-4US and BC-45-4US control units. I finished another bathroom and want to add a controller, but have been told that a compatible BSC-45-4US is no longer made. Is...


Sorry Ken I worked for Rinnai Australia as a service manager so treat my advice with a little cuation but you should find the basic universal controller should work fine. The code over here is a MC-91 Q2A. It will MC-91 sometihing for over there (I'm guessing from the codes you use you are across the pacific!). You can wire this unit either back to the heater or to wiring from another controller, just match the colours and link them in. Power off the heater first but it is all low voltage.

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Hi I have a elec/gas GC6AA-10E atwood works fine on gas and power but lock-out light not working. Have tested light and woking fine, tested for 12v reading from blue wire out of unit but no reading. Any...


Here's test procedure from atwood service manual.
To test Lamp track:
Place negative lead of the multi-meter to ground (green
wire) track of edge connection and positive lead of the
multi-meter to lamp (blue wire) track of edge
connection. If no continuity, this indicates blown lamp
track. Circuit board will still fire unit but lamp light will
not come on. This is caused by a short in the blue wire
between the unit and the switch. Wiring must be
corrected before the board is replaced.

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Hi,
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heatman101

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I have a Rinnai MC-45 US. One morning, we had no hot water & the temp on the control panel read 12. So I pushed the Priority button. We now have hot water, but the priority button is still lit. It has...


Error code 12 can sometimes be caused by a short circuit on the low voltage side of the installation. Could possibly be a fault with the controller itself which is low voltage.

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I replaced all parts but water heated won't get hot


You have electric water heater.
You replaced elements and thermostats but heater still won't work.
And tank was completely full of water, and water was running out of a faucet before turning power ON.
If elements are not fully immersed in water, they will instantly burn out.
If upper element is burned out, then tank will have NO hot water.
If lower element is burned out, and upper element is not burned out, then tank will have some hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If elements did not burn out, then that leaves 1 main suspect: the electricity.

1) Push in ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If ECO is tripped out, then heater will not work.

2) Click circuit breaker all the way one direction and then back the other direction to make sure breaker is latched.

3) If tank has 2 elements, then it is 240volt.
If 1 leg of 240Volt circuit is not working, then 240V appliance will not work.
240Volt circuit needs both hot wires to complete the circuit:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

Buy cheap multimeter from Home Center and set dial to 240-250-277VAC
Tape tester leads to woods sticks to keep hands away from power.
Power is ON
Test across top 2 screws on upper element should show 220-240 volts.
If you have 240 at top two screws, then skip down to step 6.
If no reading across top two screws, then move to top of tank.

4) Open connection point where wire connects to heater.
Test across both insulated wires should get reading of 220-240 volts.
If no reading, move to circuit breaker box.

5) Mark water heater breaker.
Turn off all breakers except water heater breaker and main breaker. (and breaker to light fixture where box is located)
Do not hold or touch or lean against anything metal.
Stand on dry boards and wear dry clothes.
If main breaker is OFF, the big wires that connect to main breaker are still HOT.

Remove box cover.
240Volt breaker has 2 wires connected with screws.
Test across both screws for 240Volt.
See if wires are loose.
If there is no reading, then breaker is not working on one leg.
To double check, move water heater wires to another same-size 240V breaker and then put ear against water heater to listen for bubbly-fizzing sound.

6) If you are getting 240 to water heater, then wire inside tank could be loose.
Do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer.

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We hada power outage. The light on the power button from the noritz tankless water heater remote control does not come on.


I'd first try cutting electricity to the unit and then powering it back up; however, there's a good chance you unit was damaged from a voltage surge following the power return. If you have a volt meter, here are a few things to check:
-voltage across the gfi - the gfi is located on the bottom of the unit; it is a black box with a blue, white, green, black, and white wires coming into it. There should be about 100VAC across the blue/white and black/white pairs.
-If there's no voltage across either pair, your transformer is fried and needs to be replaced.
-If there is voltage across the blue/white but not the black/white, look for moisture in the bottom of the unit. If there's no visible moisture (indicating a leak), you may need to replace the gfi.
-If there's voltage on both sides of the gfi, measure voltage at the remote terminals (location depends on model). You should have 15VDC across the terminals. If there's no voltage, your circuit board is dead.

Good Luck!

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