Question about Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Garage Door Opener Wireless Keypad Model 976LM Security+
Garage opener opens a little and then it closes very slowly. The bar that holds the machine bends as it tries to open. An error comes up on the keypad, saying excessive opening force detected. I need to open it at least manuelly for now to get my car out
Un hook the door from the rail manualy open door to see if it hangs up. if it does fix the door rollers or rail. if not find out what is binding. you may need to adjust the distance it stops
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Posted on Nov 21, 2013
Your issue with the door sounds like the spring has broke that counter balances the weight of the door, it may take two people to raise the door open once you disconnect it from the opener.
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/mike_a0891ab86974ea74
Posted on Apr 17, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
That normally happens when the sensors aren't aligned. Both sensors have led lights on them the yellow/orange one will stay on all the time the green one will go out if it cant see the other sensor. Possibly theres a wire that's broken or the other sensor is really out of alignment. Check every inch of wiring from the sensor to the opener, remove wire nuts if present and check the connections. The wires that are used are small, solid and can break easily. Also see if there's a staple that's too tight, move the wire abit where it's stapled and look for damage.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
I had the same issue recently and here's what I found out (through a LOT of research) and the solution (yes, there is one!):
As described by many, when you can't get both the remote and the wireless pad to work together it means your garage door opener can accept both rolling code and billing code technology, BUT not at the same time. When you reset all codes (normally by pressing a button on the opener for a period of time e.g. 6 seconds or more), you erase all codes and remote "pairings". Then when you follow the manufacturer's procedure to pair again (which could be the wireless key pad first OR the remote first), the first pairing determines the technology for all subsequent pairings. Example: if your first pairing/programming was with the wireless keypad, and if it was rolling code technology (normally the case for newer models), then the garage opener will only recognize and accept rolling code for subsequent pairings. If your remote(s) are older (billion code technology) then the opener won't even recognize the signal (e.g. led won't blink when trying to pair/program).
And vice versa if you start with your remote after erasing all programming (then your keyless pad won't work).
But here is a potential workaround! For newer wireless keypads (e.g. clicker from chamberlain), you have an option to select the type of opener you are using as you do the initial password set up (normally indicated by a number e.g. 1 for models built after 1995, 2 for models built between 1997 and 2004, etc). Each choice is associated with a technology in the background (e.g. either rolling code or billion code). If you are programming your wireless keypad first after erasing all codes / programming, if you chose the "recommended" option for garage opener, chances are it will be rolling code and that means you won't be able to program your older remotes (billion code) after that. So how can you chose the option that will match your remote???
Here's what you do: start by pairing / programming your older remote first after erasing all codes / programs. That sets the technology (e.g. billion code). Then, go ahead and program your wireless keypad, but you may have to go through the process several times by trying the different options until you find one that works!
For me, I had to try 4 options before making it work. Options 1 through 3 (mind you, options #2 was the exact match for my garage door opener model but it would cause the problem discussed here e.g. wireless keypad would work but not the remotes) would not even be recognized by the opener in this procedure (LED would not blink), but it did work once I hit option 4.
I hope this will help you with your problem. Let me know if it's not clear. Cheers!
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
what keypad are you using with new opener? Frequency has changed. can't use old one. you probably never needed to change things; just needed to follow proper coding procedures.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
If you are sure the battery is good you have a bad keypad. The signal strength is so weak it will not penetrate the door.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
You cannot bypass the sensors but you can try reversing their position so that the sun isn't hitting the receiving unit. You can also move them back from the door or use something like the tube inside a roll of toilet tissue to shade the lens.
Posted on May 20, 2010
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force adjustments control the pressure used to open and close the
door. A new garage door opener from the factory is set to the lowest
possible force adjustment. If you have a properly balanced door, the
forces required to open and close the door should be minimal.
force adjustments are usually located on the rear of the garage door
opener and/or under one of the light lenses, If your opener has two
lights. If you have lights on the side of your opener, the force
adjustment will be located under the right light lens. The force
adjustments are labeled with an arrow indicating open or close and
numbered 1 to 9, with one being the lowest force and nine the
highest. The force adjustments can only turn 260 degrees, or ¾ of a
complete turn. Changes to the forces should be done in 10-degree
increments. Please remember that too much force will interfere with
the proper operation of the safety reversal system. Do not increase
the force beyond the minimum required to close the door. Do not use
the force adjustments to compensate for a sticking, binding, or
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