Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher
Top drawer beeps the entire time the dishes are washing. Any fix?
Here is a suggestion: I had problems with the top drawer on a model 603I, I found that the control board under the drawer cover (at the upper right corner) had a broken latch. This allowed the control board assembly to drop down at the right side which caused the electronic eyes at the side of the drawer to become misaligned. This was giving false information to the control board indicating that the drawer wasn't closed properly. My problem was fixed by securing the control board back in place making sure the electronic eyes were lined up properly. (Note: The electronic eyes I am referring to include two clear plastic tubes about an inch and a half long to the right of the control board. These tubes must be properly lined up with the led and photocell on the side of the control board) It sounds complicated but if you take the drawer cover off you will notice the control board alignment immediately. Its an easy fix if this is your problem. One way to fix it is to take a piece of string and tie the board back in place. (That's what I fixed mine with and it has worked like new ever since.) NOTE: MAKE SURE THE POWER IS TURNED OFF BEFORE YOU BEGIN THIS REPAIR!
Posted on Nov 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
To find out what might be blocking it, you can remove the drawer. There are two tabs one on each side of the drawer near the bottom front. Push those in and pull the drawer out. You can lift the drawer up and push the slides in to get them out of the way. Then you should be able to see into the cabinet and what if anything is stuck behind the drawer
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
Most likely the micro-switch that tells the controller that the drawer is closed is broken. Its a tiny little black switch at the back of the left drawer slide, it had a metal actuator that is prone to breaking.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
Let's go to diagnostic test mode to see if you can retrieve the the actuator hence the tube out.
1- Press Lock button and start/pause key until the display showing up.
2- Press Power to show HO.
3- Press start button to advance the display until you see P2 for draining, if you pass, keep doing it to get it back in a loop.
4- When at P2, press lock to turn on, press a again to turn off.
5- Listen to the sound of the pump. If you hear nothing that means the pump is dead or stuck.
6- The Motor has 2 directions: one for, Rinse and one for Drain. When you done with the diagnostic, press the power button to get out of the mode.
7- If this is the case, unplug the power then remove the rack, the bottom stanless steel plate with holes then take out the rotor to clean up. It is a good design the stator is outside of the tube, so you don't have to worry too much about the complication.
8- Make a note of all the positions so you can put them back the same as they were. Good luck
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
You need a Air gap kit designed by Fisher and Paykel to address this problem. It is pricey but it is worthy. I used this and very happy with it since no back flow problem from one while other running. Here is a link to order it.http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/
Posted on Dec 29, 2009
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